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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone!
Yesterday i heard a weird sound from the front wheel and the bar started trembling. It was like someone would grind an empty beer can. I stopped immidiately,checked the brakes, then carefully rode half a mile, but that wouldn't repeat. I rode home, and when we made it back to the city, and i was happily doing 110mph through downtown, that sh** started again!!! and it was that time loud as hell!! The sound was really awful and it was there even when i pushed the bike by hands. I then rode to the parking lot, 20mph and it was like Khh-Khh, Khh-Khh all the time, then we stopped at the liquor store and after that the sound disappeared (don't get it wrong! :))))) but started whistling.

Is that the front wheel bearing???? How much does it cost?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
and yeah, the sound is definitely from the front wheel, and it's "cyclic".
 

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DON'T ride the bike again until you figure it out. Do you have stands where you can lift the front end off the ground and rotate the wheel by hand. Take the brake calipers off so the wheel rotates freely and doesn't make noise against the calipers. See if there is any slop/play in the front wheel and if it makes noise.



Get back with us..


Again, dont ride it until u figure out what is going on..
 

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Hi everyone!
Yesterday i heard a weird sound from the front wheel and the bar started trembling. It was like someone would grind an empty beer can. I stopped immidiately,checked the brakes, then carefully rode half a mile, but that wouldn't repeat. I rode home, and when we made it back to the city, and i was happily doing 110mph through downtown, that sh** started again!!! and it was that time loud as hell!! The sound was really awful and it was there even when i pushed the bike by hands. I then rode to the parking lot, 20mph and it was like Khh-Khh, Khh-Khh all the time, then we stopped at the liquor store and after that the sound disappeared (don't get it wrong! :))))) but started whistling.

Is that the front wheel bearing???? How much does it cost?
The bearings are pretty cheap.. about $20-$30...
P.S. if the sound disappeared after the liquor store, maybe the bike was low on vodka :headscratch:
 

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Generic X to Y Wheel Bearing Position Checks (for):

1. Lift front wheel off ground.

2. Push with 2 flat blade screwdrivers are the pucks away from the discs.

3. Lock forks to one side with a strap. Hold top wheel at 12 o'clock and the other hand at 6 o'clock. Any movement?

4. Hold hands at the 9 and 3 o'clock position. See why the strap? Any movement at the bearings?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys! Well, yesterday i figured out that it's a bearing, i looked through the hole in the wheel hub just to see the left bearing missing 70% of balls... o_O Does someone know the size of these bearings?

p.s. , in Soviet Russia ZX-12R rides you :)))
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok guys, i've replaced the bearings, they were $10 each... And i don't have a stand, so at the workshop they took $30 for the replacement!!! Damn! Riding a world's fastest sportbike is one expensive thing!
 

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Would have alot more expensive if you would have crashed... 50 dollars to replace bearing is fairly cheap. Socio-econnomics not withstanding..
 

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Ok guys, i've replaced the bearings, they were $10 each... And i don't have a stand, so at the workshop they took $30 for the replacement!!! Damn! Riding a world's fastest sportbike is one expensive thing!
I feel your pain, every time I ride girls с большими жопами on the back, I always have to fix something on my bike afterwards..lmao
 

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Good point, XLNT

1 pointed flat tapered punch.
1 grinding wheel.
1 steel hammer
1 rawhide mallet

A. Punch center race in an X pattern is punch this out with a steel hammer and punch. Move the center collar out of the way just that much is how you play or pay. The grinder puts the square edge back on the punch, so the longer the punch, etc.

B. Grind the old race's outer diameter until it drops into the wheel housing you punched it out of. Grind down the center race's face [only] so this is the installer side facing the new bearing. Pressure is on the center collar upon removal. Pressure to the outer race is the install: is why you grind away the center race and not have the center race place ding marks on the balls and races as you hammer the new one back in.

C. With the same X pattern you punched it out of with a steel hammer, now pick up the cowhide and start the new bearing all square to the hits. A soft bang is to get it started and it moves that easy down the housing.

D. Once the new bearing is flush with the housing and you can't tap it anymore, send the new bearing home by placing the ground bearing over the new bearing. Mallet that old bearing bang as straight and X banging as you will hear a different tone as it is sent home. Stop hammering.

Now, go tear down the rear wheel and replace those bearings too. If the fronts are going, so may (50/50) crapshoot are the rears. So insurance wise you are not home yet... sans the pun.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks to all who managed to help :))
I just don't get why it's necessary to grind the surfaces to unmount the old bearings... Our mechanic would just hit it out with some kind of aluminium bar, and - yeah, he used the old bearing to tap onto the new one, that is reasonable :))
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I feel your pain, every time I ride girls с большими жопами on the back, I always have to fix something on my bike afterwards..lmao
Yep, fat chix are a problem :)) Mine is not fat though, but she has a pair of huge титьки (titties), so my Kawi tends to wheelie out of nowhere, every time carrying her as a pillion :))))
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I guess so, but in our country 50bux is a huge amount of money :))) e.g. my first car cost $150 (i was in high school) and working as a top-manager, i earn say, 1000 to 1200 bux :))))

(p.s. A nice 70cl bottle of vodka costs about 7 to 10 $)
 

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Thanks to all who managed to help :))
I just don't get why it's necessary to grind the surfaces to unmount the old bearings... Our mechanic would just hit it out with some kind of aluminium bar, and - yeah, he used the old bearing to tap onto the new one, that is reasonable :))

If you grind the old bearing outside diameter so that it slips freely into the wheel, then you can use it to drive in the new bearing if you dont have the correct bearing driver is what I think Hubz is trying to say..
 

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I'm new here so don't shoot me down if what I'm saying it too obvious but you should always put the new bearings in the freezer over night before fitting and then heat the bearing housing with a heat gun once your ready to fit (not a blow tourch as it'll wreck your paint) and then the bearings should just drop in. I've always done this when changing bearings and it saves loads of time and effort
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ah, i see now :) That's quite an easy way!! I misunderstood about the grinding, thought, he suggests to grind the RIM!!! 0_o

Remember, guys, we,Russians dont't have anyone but a bear to practice English with! :))) Kiddin'!
 

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I'm new here so don't shoot me down if what I'm saying it too obvious but you should always put the new bearings in the freezer over night before fitting and then heat the bearing housing with a heat gun once your ready to fit (not a blow tourch as it'll wreck your paint) and then the bearings should just drop in. I've always done this when changing bearings and it saves loads of time and effort
Heat gun could still boil off the paint. This is a cold install. You know that computer dust-off in a can? Ever use it? Can begins to get cold you spray too long?

1. Set ready rim out in the sun. Garage room temp and sun hot to the touch temp are ready?

2. Run with the rim back in the shade or garage. Spray crap out of the bearing with dust-off.

3. Rawhide the initial square drop is the new, frozen bearing - Take your time - Spray the bearing again [more in the center of the bearing] if you have to.

4. :thumbup: ZXLNT was correct is what I mentioned about the outside of the old bearing. Nothing to to do about removing any material off the wheel rim, but have a clean bearing housing ready for a new bearing. The shaved used bearing sends the rim's sun drenchedust-off new being home... Once you first rawhide the outside of the bearing.

5. And if you beat crap out of the center collar, take a rat tail file, or a flat file, and dress accordingly, so the axle goes thru and the collar lays flat to the inner race. Last thing you want to do is remove any material off that center collar's length. The inner races crush that collar. You shorten the center collar, the center races move in, load the bearings, heat the outside race and all that short service seizing... Just by removing very little... Watch out!
 

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Ah, i see now :) That's quite an easy way!! I misunderstood about the grinding, thought, he suggests to grind the RIM!!! 0_o

Remember, guys, we,Russians dont't have anyone but a bear to practice English with! :))) Kiddin'!


It's allright your English is better than our Russian, and your English is better than some native English speakers I have been around....
 

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Discussion Starter #20
It's allright your English is better than our Russian, and your English is better than some native English speakers I have been around....
Thanks, nice to hear that :)

Well , i must add, that it's a lot better to freeze the bearings by spraying "quick-start" liquid. Don't know if you have it in your country. a mix of propane and diethyl ether. Ether boils at 13 C and propane - even lower, so together they can freeze the bearing below zero. Just be sure to spray it outdoors, not in your garage, or the ether will send you to Pandora for a couple of minutes - tested :)))
 
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