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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, after all the advises i gave you about ditching that f... connector and not doing it for myself ..... it finally happened to me :oops: :evil:

I just got back from a 2200 miles round trip from nova scotia, the day before comeback i noticed that i had no headlights and then it hits me !!! why me !!!!! I had checked the connector before leaving home and it was dry and perfect so i taught no need to fix it right now.

I know a 100% sure that it is not an oil problem, the wires and the connector where dry, it's just a shitty connector problem.

I am making this post to help some of you to fix the stator and the headlights trouble for a ridiculous price.

This is the kind of tools you will need:



First the stator:

1- get some good crimping lugs insulated or not for 16-14 awg (if they are insulated just rip the insulation off)



2- don't forget to put the heat shrink on the wires and then crimp and solder the connexion like the next picture.



3- Shrink the shrink and it should look like that.



Tie everything with Zip ties and you get a clean solid job like the next pic.



Now for the headlights let me explain what happens. You will see that on one of the wires coming from the stator that there is a fourth wire crimped on it. That wire goes to the junction box located under the fake gas tank and triggers a small relay in the j-box that triggers a bigger relay behind the speedo that turns your headlights on.

So when the connector burns, voltage seems to go higher on the stator and blows that small relay.

The next pictures show you the J-box and the relay you need to replace, you will need to remove all the fuses to open the j-box.




I bought a relay at my local electronics store for a ridiculus price, you can see the part number clearely on the next picture, it is the relay on the left.



So the complete fix was made for about 10$ and 2 hours of easy labor. (not counting the 120$ of the motel because i could not get home before dark :evil: )

If some of you have things to had to this fix please do so, this post should be made as a sticky so that EVERYBODY that have an 00-02 12r should do the stator fix before 30000 kms.

Thanks !
 

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Thanks man, My Bike is not going out again untill I remove that connector. I had the recall done and I checked the connector yesterday and it was full of oil. Your instructions and pics are easy to follow that anybody should be able to fix their own bike.

As a matter of fact I think I have everything already to do this mod above. It sure would be a bummer to have that connector fry at the wrong time.

Good post :)
 

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Great work detailing the job. I had my dealer do the same fix for me after reading it on this board years ago. But there weren't any pictures and no one new about the relay being able to be fixed. The dealer always replaced the fuse box which was pricey if not under warranty.

After getting mine done that way I constantly check for oil in the connector for sometime. Then I just stopped. It's been several years and the connector is still good.
 

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Im telling you guys...those of us who still have the connector, take off your stator cover and high-temp silicone the wires coming out of the stator! A friend turned me onto this and his father has been rebuilding ZX12's for a while now on top of racing them. Its an easy fix...Im not guaranteeing anything, but this will def. help!! I have 34,000 on mine and still have the connector. Get some electric parts cleaner to clean out the connector from time to time if oil is still present, but it should stop most of the oil in there. Where else do you think the oil comes from? Its probably worse on those of you who wheelie all the time! Try it out even if you have used crimped connections.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
BlackStealthNinja said:
Im telling you guys...those of us who still have the connector, take off your stator cover and high-temp silicone the wires coming out of the stator! A friend turned me onto this and his father has been rebuilding ZX12's for a while now on top of racing them. Its an easy fix...Im not guaranteeing anything, but this will def. help!! I have 34,000 on mine and still have the connector. Get some electric parts cleaner to clean out the connector from time to time if oil is still present, but it should stop most of the oil in there. Where else do you think the oil comes from? Its probably worse on those of you who wheelie all the time! Try it out even if you have used crimped connections.
Hey man, i swear to you i had absolutely not a drop of oil in my connector, it's just a shitty design, just not the right kind of connector. Of course the oil doesn't help but i don' think now it is the main reason for it to fail, 2200 miles before it was perfect, clean and not a sign of overheating, 2200 miles later i get stuck in northern New Hampshire, 2 hours from my home but no f... lights in front of my bike :x

My bike is now at about 33000 kms, it looks like the connector is no good for more. I guess it's worse in long days of driving when the connector doesn't have time to cool down, somebody that only go short trips may go longer with that stupid connector. When your connections will be crimped and soldered then you don't give a shit about the oil, it will no longer affect the connections.

Thanks all for your replies, i am very happy that this may help some of you guys, this will make your bike more reliable and make you save money, that is one thing for sure !

Good luck !
 

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lie2me said:
absolutely nothing to do with wheelies, just a flawed design.

Kudos to Zixxer.
Word! I rarely pull wheelies (intentionally) and my stator wires had so much oil running through the connector that it was dripping down onto my swingarm! :evil:
 

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Re: stator fix with pics...

zixxer12r said:
I know a 100% sure that it is not an oil problem, the wires and the connector where dry, it's just a chitty connector problem.
I take it that would be Mr Simon Chitty of Kawasaki Motors UK Customer Services?

or do you mean its a shitty connector?? :twisted:
 

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The relay replacement

Inside the Junction box, does the new relay just plug into the circuit board or do you have to sauder it in?
 

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Discussion Starter #13

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Hey guys,
Found a source in SoCal for the relays. I ordered a few and once they show up and I am sure they are correct,I will turn you guys onto the guy.
Price is $2.01USD-WOOHOO!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
VOZ said:
all those {3} yellow wires - it does not make a difference which with which correct?
Those wires are 3 phases AC voltage, no difference in wich order you solder them together.

Thanks for making this thread a sticky, i am sure it will help many of us save time and money.
:wink:
 

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:D Ok,
Relays showed up today. Place is based in los Angeles and showed up in less than 24 hours! Place is www.onlinecomponents.com . Was helped by a real nice guy named Ike. Relay replaced,lights back up-WOOHOO!
Also did the stator connector,and good thing too as the terminal that has the headlight trigger wire on it was fried and I couldn't get my connector apart either. At least I now know what blew the relay!
Oh,by the way,the relay cost $2.10USD!
I figure that if I had taken it to the dealer I would have been looking at a $400.00 bill. Probably wouldn't have fixed it either ,'cause when I hit up the head mechanic at the local dealer about my problem,he said to check the handlebar switch!
 

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Heres www.onlinecomponents.com 's part# for the relay;GA-1C-12D. His manufacturer is MEC. There is a very minute difference in the external dimension of the relay body,but it doesn't interfere with the J-box cover and the pin-outs are exactly where they should be.
I am surprised that Kawi uses these particular relays. While searching the Net for these things,I got to read several application guides and (in my opinion)these things aren't suited to an automotive environment. Almost every app I saw was as a control device in some kind of stationary equipment such as railroad signalling,electric motor control and elevators.
But then again,Kawi did put a 100hp clutch in a 170hp motorcycle :evil:
 
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