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Discussion Starter #21
Well I took the motor back out and disssembled. Took pistons back out of the cylinder. Happen to notice that #1 and #2 rod didn’t swing freely back and forth as the others. In fact, #2 would freeze up half way and not budge any further and pulling up and down on the conrod for end play, it moved enough to make a noise. The end play on the others are nice and tight. So looks like there is one problem for sure and probably explains the noise. I am sure I checked it before putting the pistons back into the cylinder initially.

Anyhow, I’m in the process of splitting cases and taking my time and rebuilding it right. Just about ready to split the cases, but trying to figure out how to get the oil pump cover off. The manual says to just “pull out oil pump cover”. Doesn’t pull out tho. Is there something I missed?

Also is it necessary to remove oil pump to split the cases?
 

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Like in said in the previous post, that's indicative of not installing the rods correctly as they are supposed to match the valves.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Jpowell...little confused when you mention not installing the rods correctly. Are you talking about the camshafts or conrods?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
The engine is done!! Looks like this is officially only good for a parts bike!! No saving it. Once I split the cases, the #2 main bearing holder has completely worn thru to the engine casing. The #2 rod bearing was worn down to literally paper and the crank journal looks like it was sanded with medium grit sandpaper. Hahaha. No doubt this engine was seriously hurt before I started in on it. Anyhow, learned a good lesson of the internals and will just add the engine parts to my ZX12 parts bin for the other 2000 and 2004 running ones I have.
 

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So in your first post, you said you tore it down and rebuilt it. So you didn't notice the crank journals before putting it back together? Did you use new bearings and have the crank polished or turned?

Regardless, the pistons have a way they go into the block. You have to linen up the valve reliefs to the corresponding cylinder. Intake/exhaust valve in the piston top (valve indentions).
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I’m sorry jpowell...when I said I tore into the engine, I only went down to as far as the top end. The bottom end seemed to be okay. No play side to side or up and down. I did take the crank to a machine shop today and was informed that it wasn’t bad at all and they could repair it for $125.00. However, they wanted me to check for undersized bearing availability first. So I’m researching where to find undersized bearings. I did find another motor for $250.00 for a 2003 but the guy doesn’t know the condition of the engine.
 

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All of the available size crank and rod shells
are listed in the manual. Brown, Blue,Black. These color designations correspond to specific measurements of the main/rod pin and case/rod bore. There are no in between-ers. You must have a set of rods (big end) sized to a oem spec found in the manual.
1.5748”~1.5751” or 1.5752”~1.5754”.
And the crankshaft rod pin finished to
1.4561”~1.4564” or 1.4564”~1.4567”
The same for the mains. The main specs are
also in the manual.(I measure to make sure) You will need a good case. The case will have main bore markings that correspond to a specific spec found in the manual. based on the measurements you will chose the appropriate bearing shell. Brown,black or blue. The service manual has everything you need information wise.
remember no in between stuff. A crank repair shop will need the specs in the book.
Careful with polishing up the crank...lol and put your clearance 10thou under and wreck your crank.

cmg
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Sounds pretty technical!! May be out of my league with this part of the rebuild. Maybe I will get lucky and find an engine with a good bottom end for a decent price. That’s what I did with my 2001 that I bought a few years ago that had dropped a valve. The guy off the forum had a good top end so I bought a whole motor with a busted bottom end. Worked out good.
 

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Depending on what you paid for the bike, you could make money selling parts off it. Engines and engine parts go for good prices.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Only gave 400 for the whole bike so it not a big loss. I talked to a shop that can repair the crank to OEM specs so I may still take a run at putting it back together just to prove to myself I can do it. What year crankcases will work...does it have to be a 2000 crankcase?
 

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Frame, if it's good and no gouges, etc and has a title, easy 600-800. 2000 model crank is pretty rare. If you can get that turned real nice, that's another nice chunk of change. Almost every part on that bike will sell.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Oh okay. Didn’t know parts were that high in demand for the ZX12. Frame has clean title and in great shape. I just may part it out then
 
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