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Discussion Starter #1
Hi There. Long time listener, first time caller.

A short story before we begin - I bought this ZX12 purely to turbocharge. I've done a turbo conversion to my car, and after reading some threads on here about budget turbo setups, I figured, how hard could it be? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

So I got the bike cheap cause it was a streetfighter conversion - meaning it had been crashed at one point. $3400 AUD. Its got a PC3 which saves me $500 to begin with. Good score I think.

But then I lost my job. So the build got put on hold. Then I scored an apprenticeship, but its part time. So I'm veeeeeeerrrry short on funds. But when you gotta go you gotta go.... fast that is. And I gotta go fast. So I said fuck food and shelter who needs that? And I've decided to start on the build.

Here's the bike.



So I've only just started the build but heres what Ive done so far.
I contacted forum member and all round good guy Scott Davis a few months ago about turbo ZX12s and ended up grabbing an exhaust flange off him. I then got some 1 1/4 sch40 steam pipe and tacked up a manifold.




Im gonna get my buddy with a tig welder to weld it up completely. But before that I gotta get a T2 flange for my turbo! But thats next payday. Baby steps.

Ive also made an excel spreadsheet of estimated costs if anyone would like to know what I'll be PLANNING to spend. Keyword: planning. Anyone whos ever had a turbo car/bike knows its a fuckin nickel and diming money pit. But that's a problem future me can deal with.




Plan and reasoning behind the build:

I was able to score a GT2871R for cheap. Which is quite a large turbo for this application. But my thinking goes - a larger turbo at say 7psi will not heat up the charge air as much as a smaller turbo at 7psi. Add the fact that I'll be running it on E85 and in my head I should be able to get away without running an intercooler and sticking to stock internals. I'd be happy with >200hp and a 9 second pass. I'm not shooting for the moon here. Hopefully I can get it done on 7psi.

The plan is to do most of the tuning myself on the road, and at the strip. With a PC3 ignition module to control spark. Otherwise known as alpha-n tuning. Which is a terrible idea, because when the bike is accelerating under different loads, the turbo will spool at different times, but since this ECU system has no boost reference, it only calculates injector pulse width based on throttle and RPM, it WILL be overfueled or underfueled in some gears. Obviously being underfueled is less desirable, the plan is to tune the bike in a high gear, and in the lower gears, part of the rev range will be running a bit rich. I am doing this because its the cheapest way to do it.

Anyway that's all I've got for now. Fell free to tell me how stupid I am.

Stay tuned for next week when I finish the manifold!

Peace
 

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a 2871 isnt that big, its a great choice for a street bike as its a high performance small frame turbo, its actually the smallest turbo we use in any kit we make.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Some update/progress pics to let y'all know I'm still going with it.

I changed the design and sussed out placement of the turbo. Placing it here allows

1. the radiator to stay where it is.
2. The oil filter to stay where it is
3. The oil cooler to remain installed
4. The compressor side to face right which looks cool when I park it. (Its the little things)

However I have to remove the hose tail on the radiator that connects the hose coming from the oil cooler. It is now routed to the front of the radiator. Pics of that on the way. Sorry for bad pics. I dont have a shed I work on the grass until the sun goes down and I dont have any light. XD XD









A few thoughts:
The steam pipe is 1 and 1/4 inch schedule 40 stainless steel. I hope it is not too restrictive of a size but I would not be able to have done it any bigger.

The manifold is a log manifold design with small pipe diameter. In theory this is bad but I made it to be compact, sit high, and fit nicely behind the radiator. Hopefully I wont need a scavenge pump but it looks like I might after all.

I've decided to go with the Multi-Function hub for PC3 with boost input. This combined with the ignition control module and base PC3 should make it possible to get a decent tune. And its not too pricey. After some thought, using alpha-n tuning for a boosted motor is a little crap, even by my standards.

More pipe is in the mail! Should finish fabbing mani next week. Then to hand it to my buddy to tig weld it all up. Then comes oil routing and intake.
 

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I use 1.25 shed 10 stainless. O.D. - 1.65 (42mm) I.D. - 1.45 (37mm) your thicker wall stuff is a little smaller on the id, but should be ok for a low boost application. the t joints are quite restrictive vs a manifold that flows into a collector. it will work, just wont have as much power per pound of boost as what it could be. car guys do it on hondas etc all the time.
 

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ps i like to press spigots into those flanges like this. they are sized for the 1.25 shed 10 and it fits the exh gaskets very well
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Interesting, Scott. After some measuring and thinkin' I was going to use 1.5 sch40 and machine the OD down to the exact size of the gaskets. I thought 1.25 would be to small because when I test fitted it it was rather loose. I'll have to check again. Thanks for your input! Super useful info as usual.
 

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Love where this project is going so far... and working in the grass until the sun goes down, that sir is some damn fine determination and commitment! I respect that!
 

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yes you have to admire the drive to get it accomplished.
my first turbo system was 1.5 in shed 10. super tight in the head and the id was was too big(shed 40 is likely better for id). ive used 1.25 shed 10 ever since. even my 500+hp dyno runs were 1.25 so it flows lots :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I've been doing some more work on the manifold. It's almost done! this has taken much longer than planned but its coming along nicely.

Pictures speak louder than words:


Here it is as of right now. Tig welded by my buddy. Just needs the spigots (correct term?) welded on.




Welded both sides. Ill go over this area with a die grinder later on to get it all smoothly ported.


This little section was a pain in the ass and took almost all day due to my lack of tools but turned out okay after I took it to my buddy's place and it was shaped with a torch and hammer and welded.




I had these machined out of 1.5 sch40 pipe. They are about half a mm smaller in diameter than the gaskets and 20mm long. My father has a lathe so no cost there:grin2:


This is how they will sit.


Turbo in frame for reference


I like the K.I.S.S concept and I am trying to keep most of the work done in a 'backyard mechanic' style, with very little fancy equipment used. To prove a point; that you dont need money or equipment to do crazy sh*t to your vehicle. I kinda broke my own rules with the tig welding, oxy torch and especially the use of a lathe. But I think it would still be easy enough to get the same results using an $80 stick welder and settling for a slightly smaller sized pipe for the spigots. So no fancy tools NEEDED so far.

Next is charge piping. I'll be using steel exhaust pipe because I cant weld aluminium and dont want to use a million silicone joints.
 

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Hi YoWattup seems like you are having fun with your build, after all the welding do you need to have the face plate machined or some wet and dry on glass to make sure it is nice and flat before you bolt her together, looking good and enjoying the pics keep posting, from another QLDer Craig
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks dastardly. The flange itself does not need to be flat but the spigots that will be welded on do. The plan is exactly as you describe - some emery tape on a flat surface of some sort and a buttload of elbow grease. I've just tacked on the spigots today and will be getting them welded hopefully tomorrow. Expect more pics in the next 36 hours.

Sorry my replies are slow - I only get on my computer on the weekends.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Here are the spigots tack welded on. Gonna give welding these a go myself. Just ordered some 2.0mm stainless electrodes for my lunchbox-sized stick welder. :D



 

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you will love welding with stainless electrodes they just flow so nice they make amateur welders look like pros. Add a few more tacks before welding or the spigots will move, and wear safety glasses when you chip off the slag the slag off the stainless weld just pings off not good for the eyes, not telling you how to suck eggs just trying to add a little helpful advise from an old welder. I have been teaching my son to weld over the last year but it has been difficult as I can no longer hold the electrode holder as my Multiple Sclerosis is fuc**ng with me, he went to tafe doing a school based corse the teacher said wow you picked welding up quick you ever welded before, my son said nah so I had a word to the teacher he said I knew he had help good luck with your project can't wait for that dyno chart Craig
 

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Looks like you're doing a fine job with what you've got to work with. Backyard ingenuity is the backbone of the modern world.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Checking in again! Sorry for the long wait between posts. Doing charge piping now. Made from a single straight piece of 2 inch mild steel exhaust pipe. Will post more pics when fully welded and painted.

Hope these pics work. I think they are sideways for some reason.
 

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nice onion slices. i do that to make tight radius bends sometimes.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I only just realised theres a typo in the title of this thread. Its supposed to be "Turbocharging MY ninja on minimum wage". Oh well.

Here's my progress in chronological order since last time:

Here's how I flattened the spigot faces. This took a long time and a lot of elbow grease but it worked. 40grit emery tape. Also welded them studs into the T2 flange there.


Not pictured I also cut up some bolts and replaced the manifold studs that were in the head. The old ones were about 5mm too short.

Next I got this oil cooler coolant return hose mounted on the front. It used to be on the rear of the radiator but it was in the way of the turbo. Since it was aluminium I could not do this myself so I had it sent away. So far the only thing I've NEEDED someone else to do. It was free for me but it wouldnt cost any more than $50 for labor.


The radiator ended up hitting the turbo so it will have to sit about 10mm further forward than stock. I'm a little annoyed at that. The mud guard was hitting The radiator but I have trimmed the mudguard and all is well. Didn't get a pic of that for some reason.

I finally took the throttle bodies off which wasn't as hard as I thought it would be but was still a bit of a pain. I was super-duper stoked when I saw this:


Why am I happy about that? That right there is what I would call a "capped" style injector. It means there is a plate welded over the tip of the injector which reduces the flow. Remove that plate and you've got a higher flowing injector with factory fit. Here's a better pic:


I had some other unknown injectors lying around and I decided to decap them. Here's what it looks like after decapping, before and after:


Basically you gently grind away the plate until it peels off, uncovering the bare pintle beneath. You dont want to touch the pintle with your grinder.


This technique is popular in the Subaru and Chevy LS worlds. Here's an example of an injector you could not do this to, this is out of my car:


So I will do that to the ZX12 injectors and of course get them flow tested.

Lastly, after trimming the rear of the mudguard, I got to work trimming the front because I always hated how ugly the 02 ZX12 guard looked. There's just too much meat. Grinder time.

Before:


After, sanded and ready for primer:


And mounted:


I think it looks a lot better than the Goldwing style it was before.

Next big thing is oil feed and return. I've ordered some fittings from ebay and while I wait for them I might paint the manifold, turbine housing and intake piping. Black for stealth. Gotta figure out a fuel pressure regulator too.

If any turbo/nitrous guys are reading this I have a few questions: What are you doing with the PCV system? Just routing it from the valve cover through a filter and to atmosphere? Secondly, what's the word on fuel pumps? Whats everybody running? Is it just a standard car-sized in tank pump? Will a Walbro 255 work?

Peace.
 

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Hi YoWattup, can't you use the keen air pump to give you a positive vacuum for PCV, I read somewhere others have done this not sure what is involved in this procedure. Also sooner then later you are going to need to get creative with your fuel filter as in your case the pressure filter is part of the pump housing and can't be changed/replaced do a search on here and add a v6 commodore FI filter under the tank it fits neat and easy and cheap to change , if you need to do any mods to your pump use good submersible pressure hose, ask me why you ned sub hose and I will tell you a story about sitting on the side of the road middle of summer taking the tank off a 12 because some dick didn't use the correct hose, in the first picture this is your pump filter housing the filter is in that black plastic housing, 2nd and 3rd are commodore FI pressure filter Craig
 

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I only just realised theres a typo in the title of this thread. Its supposed to be "Turbocharging MY ninja on minimum wage". Oh well.



Here's my progress in chronological order since last time:



Here's how I flattened the spigot faces. This took a long time and a lot of elbow grease but it worked. 40grit emery tape. Also welded them studs into the T2 flange there.





Not pictured I also cut up some bolts and replaced the manifold studs that were in the head. The old ones were about 5mm too short.



Next I got this oil cooler coolant return hose mounted on the front. It used to be on the rear of the radiator but it was in the way of the turbo. Since it was aluminium I could not do this myself so I had it sent away. So far the only thing I've NEEDED someone else to do. It was free for me but it wouldnt cost any more than $50 for labor.





The radiator ended up hitting the turbo so it will have to sit about 10mm further forward than stock. I'm a little annoyed at that. The mud guard was hitting The radiator but I have trimmed the mudguard and all is well. Didn't get a pic of that for some reason.



I finally took the throttle bodies off which wasn't as hard as I thought it would be but was still a bit of a pain. I was super-duper stoked when I saw this:





Why am I happy about that? That right there is what I would call a "capped" style injector. It means there is a plate welded over the tip of the injector which reduces the flow. Remove that plate and you've got a higher flowing injector with factory fit. Here's a better pic:





I had some other unknown injectors lying around and I decided to decap them. Here's what it looks like after decapping, before and after:





Basically you gently grind away the plate until it peels off, uncovering the bare pintle beneath. You dont want to touch the pintle with your grinder.





This technique is popular in the Subaru and Chevy LS worlds. Here's an example of an injector you could not do this to, this is out of my car:





So I will do that to the ZX12 injectors and of course get them flow tested.



Lastly, after trimming the rear of the mudguard, I got to work trimming the front because I always hated how ugly the 02 ZX12 guard looked. There's just too much meat. Grinder time.



Before:





After, sanded and ready for primer:





And mounted:





I think it looks a lot better than the Goldwing style it was before.



Next big thing is oil feed and return. I've ordered some fittings from ebay and while I wait for them I might paint the manifold, turbine housing and intake piping. Black for stealth. Gotta figure out a fuel pressure regulator too.



If any turbo/nitrous guys are reading this I have a few questions: What are you doing with the PCV system? Just routing it from the valve cover through a filter and to atmosphere? Secondly, what's the word on fuel pumps? Whats everybody running? Is it just a standard car-sized in tank pump? Will a Walbro 255 work?



Peace.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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