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What's your car...? JB weld will fix that right up.
Great thread, btw...tons of great info :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #82
What's your car...? JB weld will fix that right up.

It's a Honda Del Sol that I've done a bunch of stuff to. Including turbocharge.

Great thread, btw...tons of great info :thumbup:
Thanks. I can't tell if I'm rambling or not sometimes, or whether my posts are too long. But I like it when people provide as much info as possible so I thought I would do the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Made a bottle for the radiator overflow out of exhaust pipe and the existing one which was just a stainless steel drink bottle. Used my new TIG welder (I bought an ACDC tig welder for $800! Bargain!). The stainless was 28ga which is 0.015". Not much thicker than a coke can. That is ridiculously hard to weld. The trick is to keep the puddle almost entirely on the thicker material, which was 16ga. Got there eventually

Fusion welding the base of the bottle


Welded it to the charge piping because I had nowhere else to put it. Keep in mind I dont have fairings to hide it so it had to be vaguely tidy. Painted in my favourite colour.






Obviously you dont have to put in this much effort for a radiator reservoir. I couldve just hose-clamped the bottle to the piping. But tig welding is fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #84
Mid week fun! My week has been hectic, not getting home from work until dark every day. Good for my wallet, but bad for building a turbo ZX12. Managed to sneak in some work though.

New turbo time! The old Garrett was shagged. This one is a chinese carbon copy, exact same size wheels and housings, but journal bearing instead of ball. I find it funny that the used garrett I bought leaked oil like a sieve, yet the bottom-of-the-barrel chinesium turbo I put on my car has been rock solid for 10000kms. "Get a Garrett" they said. "It will be reliable" they said. My turbo philosophy is now the same as the one I have for tyres: a new chinese one is better than an old name-brand one.


Found a hiding spot for the crank vent. Used stock hose and didnt even have to cut it. In front of shock.




Every turbo Ive owned needs modifying, be it garrett, OEM or chinese. This one is no different. First up, the wastegate flapper was not quite offset correctly. It wouldve sealed fine, but its an easy fix.


Simply cut here, and out it comes:


And tap the sleeve with a hammer+pin punch. Easy.


Next issue was the size of the wastegate hole. No way was this going to be adequate.


Sprayed some paint over the flapper to see how much metal I could take out. It was a lot.


Got to work with the die grinder. Once I had done with it:


The flapper seals perfect and closes nicely after sanding the (relatively) rough die grinder edges off.

Next I will be further modifying the housing, which I already did to the garrett, but didnt document, then welding the wastegate actuator assembly back together. Finally, it will be getting a coat of hi temp manifold paint. Guess the colour.
 

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just because its a quality name, doesnt mean it had proper maintenance. garretts will last years and years of service when looked after.
i do hear good things about some knock off turbos, and bad things about other brands that are supposed to be good.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Ive been road tuning it! Dont worry - a few minutes form my house is a bunch of sugar cane fields with dead straight roads that no one uses except the farmers when they are harvesting. There are no other motorists around. Also this is in Mexico, I swear.

Basically I will ride around a bit, watch the AFR gauge, pull over, plug in the laptop I carry in my backpack, and tune where I think it needs it. This is probably THE crudest form of tuning possible.



Before this point, I made more modifications to the new turbo. The wastegate actuator was sitting out too far and would've hit the radiator. Cut and weld time.

Before:


After:




Love using the tig. Once you get your head around it, it is super easy to do very accurate welds. Getting them to look good and not getting too much heat into the piece is the hard part.

Also got rid of whatever the hell this is:




Now it fits behind the radiator. You never have to do this type of stuff with cars. Bikes have so little room.


The new turbo's exhaust housing fits perfectly to the existing T2 flange/dump pipe flange. I am very pleased with that. I really didnt want to be cutting up the exhaust again. The only issue was the oil feed. Instead of being 7/16"-20 thread like on the garrett, it is M12x1.25. Why? I do not know. It was a Sunday night and I wasnt going to wait to get a new fitting. So I made my own from the existing fitting and an M12 bolt.


I just might marry this tig welder.

Originally, after I thought I had sealed the airbox, I put my hand over the turbo and the bike stalled. Airbox sealed, I thought. But after a few rides it was no longer stalling when I did that. After some listening around with a hose used as a stethoscope, I found the air to be coming in through the headstock oil seals/bearings. There is a hole inside the airbox that leaks through the headstock. Quite a large hole, in fact. I was well aware of it when I was sealing the airbox, but I assumed it was sealed because in the other turbo ZX12 threads, there is no mention of this hole.

After consulting the encyclopedia of KZScott, it turns out the hole is there on '02 models and newer. The guys from the other threads have pre '02 bikes. I couldnt think of a better way to seal it, so I sikaflex'd a piece of sheet steel to it using a long-ass hose attached to the end of my sikaflex tube. What a PITA. But I got it done.

Keep in mind - 1. the boost pressure will 'push' it closed, making a better seal under boost, 2. The air filters are still installed, so no need to worry about it coming off and going through the engine and 3. Yes, that is a piece of cardboard; the steel plate is under that.

ANOTHER SLOPPY WARNING




This also proves that I can still get the filters out after silicone-ing them in there.


Another reminder - If it looks stupid but it works, it ain't stupid.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
I was tuning the bike, practicing a few launches and the clutch started slipping. No surprise there. So I took it apart, and what was surprising (to me) was that it was bone dry. Apparently this is a common problem with these bikes.

So I did the clutch pack oiling mod that who else but KZScott came up with. Link: http://kawasakiworld.com/racing/37186-not-enough-oil-clutch-pack-how-fix.html

I think I ended up with about 20 holes in the hub. Problem solved, hopefully.

Next up the steels were very burnt out with visible glazing (glossy areas) so I cleaned these up using 400grit sandpaper and a glass mirror. A controversial act Ive been told. I guess we will wait and see if the friction plates last.

Before and after cleaning up the steels.




Man my camera sucks.

The stack height was within spec (I finally downloaded a service manual! yay! lol), and apparently the stock plates are good quality, which is why I didnt replace them.

I did buy some new springs. I wouldve liked Brocks springs but its like a 4 week wait. So I took the plunge on some Ferodo springs which were only $20 and a 3 day wait. The springs are not really any stiffer but they are significantly longer, and they take a lot more pressure to compress to 45mm, which is approximately what they are when in the clutch. The only problem is there was only 5 in the packet :banghead::banghead: (ZX12R has 6 springs). So I installed 4 of them and put it all back together. I'll contact the shop I got them from as soon as they re open after the holidays.



Clutch works great! It's definitely firmer at the lever. I wonder if 4 of the new springs will be enough? Still have some engine tuning to do, its mainly just the launch that needs work because it goes really rich for some reason but that area of the RPM/throttle range is fine when riding along regularly? Its quite strange.

Hey i think my sig is working now
 

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Discussion Starter #88
No pics this time as I'm still just tuning it. My boost gauge is affected by bumps too badly to read, but it seems to be at pretty low boost - about 5psi or less. I will be getting a liquid-filled gauge soon and winding it up to 7psi. Not much else to say at the moment other than all is going well :)
 

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Discussion Starter #89
I'm having a break from riding/tuning at the moment as its just too hot when I wear all the gear, even at night. Funny how most of the world's biking population take the winter off, but down here you take the summer off! Winter is the best season for riding here in Brisbane, Australia, dry and nice and cool.
 

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I'm having a break from riding/tuning at the moment as its just too hot when I wear all the gear, even at night. Funny how most of the world's biking population take the winter off, but down here you take the summer off! Winter is the best season for riding here in Brisbane, Australia, dry and nice and cool.
you pussy its a balmy 35c and a pleasant %70 humidity, so now go and put all your leathers on, your long boots and gloves, full face helmet and stew a little, summer sure has hit hard Craig Hervey Bay QLD :cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #91
you pussy its a balmy 35c and a pleasant %70 humidity, so now go and put all your leathers on, your long boots and gloves, full face helmet and stew a little, summer sure has hit hard Craig Hervey Bay QLD :cheers:
haha. I actually went out last night at midnight to tune it. Still sweating.
 

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Discussion Starter #92 (Edited)
Hey guys. So the summer heat has gone but its been raining here on and off for about 2 months now. Very rarely get a chance to take the bike out in dry weather.

Ive recently bought and installed some Brock's Performance heavy duty clutch springs. They are A LOT stiffer than stock. I put all 6 in, even though 3 or 4 wouldve been fine. The clutch lever is painful to use but thats not really something I care about.

I also got a proper liquid-filled boost gauge which dampens the vibrations so I can see the damn thing. Turns out its running 6psi wastegate pressure. I was going for 7psi minimum but after riding it and experiencing the brutal speed of the thing, I think I might leave it 6. Its not like you can go full throttle until 3rd gear/160kph and its a street bike so theres not much point in having more power (wow what have I become? haha). On second thought I might turn it up in winter. XD

Here's my current fuel consumption. 113km/70mi to a tank. Turns out a turbo and E85 is not great for fuel economy. 110% worth it though.



Also it shoots flames on high rpm decel so thats pretty cool.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
Just a little update... So about 5000km with this setup and all is well and good. Its been running 6psi and the tune is pretty good. Yet to take it down the quarter. New headlight and painted it all black. Also Im not sure if I mentioned this but I set the crank sensor back to where it was so its at stock timing now.







 

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Same here cmg I just read the whole thing aswell some great information cheers for bringing us along on your journey
 
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