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Discussion Starter #1
Guys. I'd appreciate a modern-day opinion from my fellow ZX12R stallwarts. I'm the 2nd owner of my A1 model (16k). The valve cover gasket has never been off.

While I'm a confident DIYer on this and past bikes, not sure I want to risk the valve adjustment job... so have been putting it off. Bike seems to run as she should, with no valve train noise, pre-ignition, overheating.

What do you recommend? How long can we let it go before something in the top end lets go? Thanks!
 

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Agree with cmg, often the first valve check you do may only require the odd shim change, but not always (my experience). I do my own servicing and usually do a valve check every major service (12k kms / 7.5k miles) just for peace of mind, but have found after several thousand kms it rarely goes out of spec. Probably don't need to do it that often, even 24k kms seems okay. Once you've done it you'll find it's relatively straight forward apart from access.

Yes, get a manual !

Don.
 

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These are big lazy motors most of the time as in low RPM, and after doing mine at 20k miles none were out of tolerance but I still changed a few and swapped round a couple. I then checked them again at about 36 or 38k miles and again none were out of tolerance though I did swap 2 around, I probably put them in the wrong place the first time.
I don't track or race the bike, but like most people, I do like to rev it out occasionally, so I would imagine yours might be ok till your up into the 24k mile zone.
I will admit though, you will get that peace of mind feeling once you have checked them if you are worried.
The job itself is not hard to do, just a ball ake, not a lot of room for your hands to work in.
Make sure you have a good set of feeler gauges if you want to accurately measure clearances, ones where 2 blades give the next size up, and a good torque wrench should you want to change any.
Take pictures of things as you go, more so on the throttle position sensor and air inlet pressure sensor, as the plugs on your bike are the same and close together so it's easy to get them crossed over.
Remove the plugs last just before you start measuring and having to turn the crank over, this way they're easier to get out, and your less likely to drop anything in there.
As above, have a manual to hand, and don't rush it.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Hey boys I really appreciate the detailed responses. Thanks for taking the time. I have the factory manual and have pulled the throttle body to have the injectors sonic cleaned, replaced all fuel system o-rings,change the plugs (in the past year) so I know what a PITA that is to get to the valve cover. I believe I also saved a manual or recommended steps from one of the guys on the forum here about adjusting the valves so I have that as well. I might just make this a wintertime project here in Texas. I am no stranger to adjusting mechanical valve trains... I had a 71 boss 351 Mustang years ago and was always in there tuning clearances... shimming should be no big deal.
 

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well the manual says check every 12k. i just bought another 2000 with 60000km and the previous owner says that the valves havent been checked for the 35k he put on it. unsure if it had checks before that. i will likely check them at some point soon as it has a decent leak at the valve cover. that being said the bike seems to run fine. ill have it on the road/dyno next week to verify its running fine.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Got the Blitz instructions... perfect. Again, thanks guys. I'll report back in the coming months when I jump on this.
 

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Guys. I'd appreciate a modern-day opinion from my fellow ZX12R stallwarts. I'm the 2nd owner of my A1 model (16k). The valve cover gasket has never been off.

While I'm a confident DIYer on this and past bikes, not sure I want to risk the valve adjustment job... so have been putting it off. Bike seems to run as she should, with no valve train noise, pre-ignition, overheating.

What do you recommend? How long can we let it go before something in the top end lets go? Thanks!
Make sure before you remove the camshafts after setting top dead center on 1 and 4 per the manual that you scratch exact line on both sprockets and cam chain links. TAKE YOUR FUCKING TIME.
Check and recheck your work.
Set them to the loose side if you never want to do it again for 30000 miles.
 
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Zx12 Mark, what would marking the chain itself have to do with anything? If you mark the gears on the camshafts, the chain shouldn't matter right?

For those of you that have done this, what is the best shims to buy? I see a crazy amount of different sizes, which sizes should you purchase? I would like to have a kit (plastic box) of them for future use.

As a side note, no bike I have ever owned needed an adjustment. The only one I had that did was a 1990-1992 Suzuki Katana 600. Can't remember the exact year, I was about 16 at the time. Anyway it had what the mechanic said was a click in it. It was very low mileage when I bought it and they did an oil change I believe. I never heard any noise and I pay close attention to that stuff.

Anyway, the mechanic said it had an auto adjusting cam chain tensioner and he removed it and installed something he made that manually adjusted it. I was very proficient in race engines (cars) back then and probably had a look of terror. He seemed to know what he was talking about so I said ok. Never had any issue out of it so.... End of story time for today lol.
 

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The shim size is 9.48mm wide, and the thickness on my B4 was between 2.20 and 2.50mm, which miffed me as I have loads of shims for my zx-9r but there only 7.48 wide.
 
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