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I have a 2004 Vulcan 2000 that has about 5000 miles on it. I have it since new. My problem is that around 2000 miles it developed a noise in the valve train assembly. By the time the noise started the warranty expired, so I was on my own as far as paying for repairs goes.

I brought it into a Kawasaki dealer in my area and they said that they put a small amount of kerosene in the oil to try to clear out the oil passages in an attemp to clear the problem. The noise subsided for a while but returned. I brought it back to the dealer several more times but to no avail. All in all it cost me about 1500.00 and still I have the noise which got louder.

2007 I developed a medical issue that put me on my ass and out of worrying about riding, so essentially I parked the bike and forgot about it until now.

In 2004 A friend and I purchased the same bike at the same time from the same dealer, he purchased an extended warranty policy I did not. His bike developed the same noise before my bike did. He brought his bike into his dealer who replaced the valve train assembly and the noise went away. he currently has about 30000 trouble free miles on it.

My question to the forum is, does anyone know if this year bike had a manufacturing defect that Kawasaki corrected in the following model years.
Also does anyone know what is causing this problem in the first place? Are the oil passages on the pushrods too small, clogging up too early, starving the upper part of the valve train?

I'm sorry this post is so long winded, any help would be greatly appreciated.



i
 

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Just based on the few details you provided it sounds like a hydraulic lifter isn't pumping up completely; hence the kerosene trick.

Ask your friend for the repair invoice on his bike: I bet the lifters were replaced.

I would search kawa v-twin forums for specific info on your model year.
 

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Try Seafoam, you can get it at Walmart or any auto parts store, read the label and pour some in the oil, run the engine at idle for 15/20 minutes, drain the oil and replace the filter, you will find the oil you drained out will be BLACK, Seafoam works VERY well cleaning deposits from your engines guts. While your at it fill the tank with gas and add the Seafoam as directed on the can, it will clean you injectors/carbs, valves and pistons. I use it in everything I have, and know MANY people that do. I bought a 2001 Kawasaki Voyager XII (I have 3 of them now) it had set for God Knows how long and the carbs was in bad shape, it would only run on full choke and missed on 1 cyl when I got it, before I went through all the trouble of a carb rebuild, I did the Seafoam in the gas tank thing, ran the bike until cooling fan came on and shut it down at a high idle, let it soak over night and did it again for a couple days, now it runs smooth as silk and no carb rebuild. I also add some to the gas about every 6 fill ups just because. GREAT STUFF.
 

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My 2006 Vulcan 2000 (Classic LT) had the same issue around the same mileage. I had the oil changed at 1000 miles instead of 600. Around 20,000 it was in the shop and seized up. I sued the local dealer who was out of business and the extended warranty in small claims in Sacramento.

Because of that noise, I believe there was a design or manufacturing flaw. I lost the case against the warranty company and ended up putting in a replacement engine from a 2009 w/ 8,000 miles - like a brand new bike - never any noise at all.
 

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Valve lifter noise solution

I have a 2005 Vulcan 2000 Limited. At about 22000 miles it developed a lifter tick that became severe within a couple hundred miles. Fortunately I had an extended warranty. Unfortunately the shop had my bike for four months and still could not get the bike to stop ticking. They flushed it with everything from ATF to diesel, changed HLA’s, push rods, etc. Kawasaki had the bike sent to another dealer who told me after 6 weeks it was fixed. When I arrived to pick it up it was ticking worse than ever. 5 weeks later I finally picked up the bike and it was quiet. That didn’t last long (about 1200 miles). By this point my warranty had finally expired and Kawasaki said I was on my own. They will not admit to having a problem with this motor.
It’s a good thing I am a mechanic because I had to take the motor out and fix this myself. What I found was the oil feed tube/shaft for the rocker arms has a brass filter at the end. These are NOT serviceable filters (4) without removing the motor! When these filters clog the HLA’s WILL LOCK UP!!!! I punched out all the brass filters, replaced all the HLA’s, and cleaned the motor thoroughly and did 4 oil changes (note: I also ran 7.5 oz. of Seafoam in the crankcase before tearing it down) It sounds like new now!
If Kawasaki felt they needed to have more filtration for the HLA’s they should have put the filters in the riser tubes so they could be serviced. The way it is designed now it is guaranteed to fail eventually. That means this whole problem is a design flaw from the factory!
I do believe this problem is worse in colder climates. The colder weather promotes condensate in the motor when you ride it and put it away hot in a cold garage. This leads to a sludge that I believe is what caused the filters to plug up. You can see this sludge on the oil cap/ dipstick. It’s much worse on the top of the valve covers. This is hard to avoid even with frequent oil changes. I change my oil every 2000 miles and always have. I have changed over to a synthetic oil now to try and eliminate this. I guess time will tell.
This should be a recall issue but I doubt Kawasaki will ever admit it. I hope this helps everyone. I know I have been struggling with this for 7 years. I should have torn it down myself long time ago but the warranty made me lazy I guess.
 

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Lifter tap remedy

I have a 2004 Vulcan 2000 with approximately 4000 miles on it. I added 1 cup of Marvel Mystery Oil and in 20 minutes riding time my newly developing lifter tap was gone. 'Sewing machine' idle smooth now! The Marvel Mystery Oil Web site says to use 25% of the regular oil capacity with Mystery Oil and 4 oz to every 10 gallons in the fuel. That's exactly what I plan to do from here forward along with my 100% synthetic oil changes at spec weight. The temperature where I rode today was in the thirties.
 

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Gunsmith64, what exactly are you referring to about the brass filters? I have the service manual but I don't see anything about them in it......I too have the tappets making a lot of noise now. In the passed, it was an indication that I was low on oil. I always carry 2-3 Qts everywhere I go.....I have 72K miles on her now, but, since about 1500 miles, she's really liked the taste of oil. So much that it would go through about a quart every 1000-1500 miles. This time, though, I'm having a problem with it not quieting down. When it's cold, you can hear a tic constantly, but, after it's warm, several of the tappets are making noise. I've done the sea foam, changed the oil three times now and nothing seems to be working at all. Are the oil feed tubes you're talking about the ones on the side of the engine opposite the push rods? Did you just remove the brass filters or replace them? Riding season is here now and I don't want to have to keep dealing with this problem.....

Thank in advance for your info....

Dave C
 

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DC1964 I have almost the same problem and took it to tne dealer.at the time they told me that synthetic oil was too thin and was causing the oil usage so went back to the recommended oil now have taken it to the dealer with a knocking noise and they tell me that Kawasaki recommends putting synthetic oil in it as the recommended oil was too thick to reach the top of the engine, so now i am totally confused hope somebody on here has an answer.....????? I have an 04 VN2000 with 45000 miles
 

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40 grade is 40 grade: it matters not whether the base is conventional or >/= PAO 3 base.

What you'll find is the synthetics flow better when cold (lower W number) and need less additive to maintain their service life.
 

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Issues With the Vulcan Classic 2000 Lt Valve Noise

Hello All
I own a 2007 Kawasaki Vulcan Classic 2000 LT. I came across the postings about the valve train issue (Severe knock in the upper heads).
I have 3100 miles on my bike that I bought in 2008, the bike started having the valve train knock after servicing on 7/2016 and a while back.
My bike had only been started a few times in the last two years. There was mention of using your bike in cold regions and putting away in a cold garage caused a blocking of the bass screens with sludge.
I noticed that someone commented on using Seafoam to clean out the engine and the brass screens at the top of the valve train.
I found an obscure posting saying to use 1 cup (8oz) of Miracle Oil added to your oil change.
As a devoted user of Miracle Oil in my gas for winter storage, I added maybe 9oz's of miracle oil to my 20/50 Mobil1 oil change in addition to using a Wix #51358 filter (Not the XP). Also drained all gas with a Hopkins Super Siphon and filled with Sunoco 93 octane gas.
Ran the bike in idle mode for about twenty (20) minutes. Started my bike the next day and took it out, was quieter, but, within twenty (20) minutes of driving the valve train was humming along beautifully and didn't require Seafoam. (That would of been my next step).
My Vulcan sounds like the day it left the showroom.
Hope this helps people out there with a valve train noise.
I have the Kawasaki factory manual and it provides a weath of knowledge.
Another issue I came across was an issue with the front wheel bearings being an issue.
I found new bearings online for about $20, versus OEM for $60, took off front wheel (I can provide details about creating bolt tool) cost about $20 to have old bearings pressed out and new bearings pressed in.
Bike runs perfectly and is quiet as can be.
My dealer took my front wheel off a number of times, two year factory warranty and online purchase of the Kawasaki extended warranty for an additional four four years, but, as others have said, you are SOL once the warranty has lapsed and things were not fixed properly.
Happy trails to all!
 

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Issues With the Vulcan Classic 2000 Lt Valve Noise

Hello All
I own a 2007 Kawasaki Vulcan Classic 2000 Lt. I came across the postings about the valve train issue (Severe knock in the upper heads).
I have 3100 miles on my bike that I bought in 2008, the bike started having the valve train knock after serviicing on 7/2016.
My bike had only been started a few times in the last two years. There was mention of using your bike in cold regions and putting away in a cold garage caused a blocking of the bass screens with sludge.
I noticed that someone commented on using Seafoam to clean out the engine and the brass screens at the top of the valve train.
I found an obscure posting saying to use 1 cup (8oz) of Miracle Oil added to your oil change.
As a devoted user of Miracle Oil in my gas for winter storage, I added maybe 9oz's of miracle oil to my 20/50 Mobil1 oil change in addition to using a Wix #51358 filter (Not the XP). Also drained all gas with a Hopkins Super Siphon and filled with Sunoco 93 octane gas.
Ran the bike in idle mode for about twenty minutes (20). Started my bike the next day and took it out, was quieter, but, within twenty (20) minutes of driving the valve train was humming along beautifully and didn't require Seafoam. (That would of been my next step).
My Vulcan sounds like the day it left the showroom.
Hope this helps people out there with a valve train noise.
I have the Kawasaki factory manual and it provides a weath of knowledge.
Another issue I came across was an issue with the front wheel bearings being an issue.
I found new bearings online for about $20, versus OEM for $60, took off front wheel (I can provide details about creating bolt tool) cost about $20 to have old bearings pressed out and new bearings pressed in.
Bike runs perfectly and is quiet as can be.
My dealer took my front wheel off a number of times, two year factory warranty and online purchase of the Kawasaki extended warranty for an additional four four years, but, as others have said, your SOL once the warranty has lapsed and things were not fixed properly.
Happy trails to all!I
 

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Hello All
I own a 2007 Kawasaki Vulcan Classic 2000 Lt. I came across the postings about the valve train issue (Severe knock in the upper heads).
I have 3100 miles on my bike that I bought in 2008, the bike started having the valve train knock after serviicing on 7/2016.
My bike had only been started a few times in the last two years. There was mention of using your bike in cold regions and putting away in a cold garage caused a blocking of the bass screens with sludge.
I noticed that someone commented on using Seafoam to clean out the engine and the brass screens at the top of the valve train.
I found an obscure posting saying to use 1 cup (8oz) of Miracle Oil added to your oil change.
As a devoted user of Miracle Oil in my gas for winter storage, I added maybe 9oz's of miracle oil to my 20/50 Mobil1 oil change in addition to using a Wix #51358 filter (Not the XP). Also drained all gas with a Hopkins Super Siphon and filled with Sunoco 93 octane gas.
Ran the bike in idle mode for about twenty minutes (20). Started my bike the next day and took it out, was quieter, but, within twenty (20) minutes of driving the valve train was humming along beautifully and didn't require Seafoam. (That would of been my next step).
My Vulcan sounds like the day it left the showroom.
Hope this helps people out there with a valve train noise.
I have the Kawasaki factory manual and it provides a weath of knowledge.
Another issue I came across was an issue with the front wheel bearings being an issue.
I found new bearings online for about $20, versus OEM for $60, took off front wheel (I can provide details about creating bolt tool) cost about $20 to have old bearings pressed out and new bearings pressed in.
Bike runs perfectly and is quiet as can be.
My dealer took my front wheel off a number of times, two year factory warranty and online purchase of the Kawasaki extended warranty for an additional four four years, but, as others have said, your SOL once the warranty has lapsed and things were not fixed properly.
Happy trails to all!I
If you would please pass along the directions for the "bolt tool". I have an 07 LT as well. Also have a shop press and a.bearing that may be questionable.
Thanks!


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 

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If you would please pass along the directions for the "bolt tool". I have an 07 LT as well. Also have a shop press and a.bearing that may be questionable.
Thanks!


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Hi
I was going to do the bolt trick, but, found an ABN tool on Amazon for $11.99, free shipping with Prime. It has 17, 19, 22, 24 MM tool in one using a 3/8 ratchet or a box wrench. See my post below, thanks. My bikes a duplicate of yours.
sailr305/sailr305a
 

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Bearing replacement (SKF), Brake Pads, Drive belt adjustment

Hi All, a few corrections please note below!!!!!
My bike has ONLY, 3,100 miles, have a front and rear wheel/brake/drive belt issues.
Since I was taking this beast apart, thought I'd do everything.

Got front and rear brake pad set off EBay for around $16 with free shipping.

Someone railed about All Balls bearings that people were raving about coming from China with questionable quality.

The Vulcan 2000 Classic Lt uses the same bearings front and back on a number of model years on the V2K. Someone on this site or another kawasaki site mentioned '6006- RS1, this information was wrong, item is 6005-2RS (found this information after crossing Kawasaki part numbers, part 601 in wheel diagrams relates to 601--6005UU) by Koyo on Bearing Basement out of the UK, with shipping was about $30, cheaper than US. prices. There's also another bearing just behind the sprocket looks like a double width bearing, but, Kawasaki doesn't list part pictures. Will provide # shortly, not paying $48

The 6005-2RS bearing designation #2 is sealed both sides, RS is about the bearing seal compound (rubber seal) and the one is deflection from Japan! SKF is cheaper from Germany. Not from China!

Amazon.com has the bearing puller set for about $33 and the bearing installer for about $25 with free Prime shipping.

Add the 4 sizes of mm tools in one (17, 19, 22, 24) for $12, to remove axles, etc., so for around $100 you can do everything including cleaning drive belt and adjusting deflection. You can also get a MM set of 3/8 allen wrench sockets at Harbor Freight for around $12 (9 pieces) with a 20% internet coupon. Tools can be used for multiple purposes so it's not a waste of money.

Another good tidbit of information NGK spark plugs at a reasonable price. The (4) spark plugs for this bike were running $50-$60. I found SixityAuto.com bought 4 plugs for the Vulcan for $31 after $5 sign up coupon and free shipping.
I'll be doing the work step by step, don't use information verbatim. I will update as I do each task.
- added Miracle oil to crankcase, stopped lifter noise. (Complete);^
- bought (4) NGK IZFR6F-11 for $31 used my
craftsman tools to install, no special tools.
(Complete)
- bought brake pads, doing front brakes
- will remove front wheel assembly, check bearings and replace if required with above part.
- will bleed front brakes and replace fluid as it's 8 years old (only Dot4)
- will drain and replace antifreeze. (Have drained overflow bottle and refilled before)
- will replace rear pads (replace fluid in rear brakes)
- will adjust drive belt deflection by tightening rear axle and aligning.
- will remove rear wheel if any noises or issues left (more complicated )

I can't beleive this because I had a Honda GL500 for 16 years no problems ever and a Honda Shadow Ace 750 for 7 years no problems.

I had the extended warranty on the V2K that covered six years.

Called the dealer Flamingo Sports about service and warranty. I brought it in 4 times for front wheel vibration, they told me they worked on the front brakes every time. Believe me I don't appreciate being scammed.

I figuire with everything above along with the Miracle oil trick for the valve screens and lifters it would be new again. All this on an 07 Vulcan V2K with 3,100 miles, never ridden in the rain and garage stored.
 
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