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Discussion Starter #1
just orded some 2.2mm genuine oversise pistons for the z1000 as the valves and the valve angle is the same and will be getting the compression ratio up a bit without a base gasket and a skimmned head ...going to bore out an old c1 block , i just hope the new rings from the z1000 will be kind to the old steel liners as they are a bit tougher to stand rubbing against Nikasyl bores .. i shall keep you all posted ! this is a very cheap way to get 953cc which should last .
 

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Are you going to use the stock liners?

You really can't bore the stock liners. The stock liners thin out halfway down the bore to let the coolant flow around them. If you ever had them out you would know exactly what I am talking about.

I have some stock 99 liners out if you want me to send you a pic and some measurements let me know.

I also have some aftermarket liners that are the same thickness all the way through if you are interested.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
spdingtkts said:
Are you going to use the stock liners?

You really can't bore the stock liners. The stock liners thin out halfway down the bore to let the coolant flow around them. If you ever had them out you would know exactly what I am talking about.

I have some stock 99 liners out if you want me to send you a pic and some measurements let me know.

I also have some aftermarket liners that are the same thickness all the way through if you are interested.
how thin do they go ? as i am only removing 1.1 mm each side i was hoping it could be safe !
 

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Discussion Starter #4
spdingtkts said:
Are you going to use the stock liners?

You really can't bore the stock liners. The stock liners thin out halfway down the bore to let the coolant flow around them. If you ever had them out you would know exactly what I am talking about.

I have some stock 99 liners out if you want me to send you a pic and some measurements let me know.

I also have some aftermarket liners that are the same thickness all the way through if you are interested.
can you mail the pics to me please [email protected] thankyou
 

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I'll get some pics and measurements for you tomorrow.

Did you get my email the other day? After I emailed you another JE experience came to mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
spdingtkts said:
I'll get some pics and measurements for you tomorrow.

Did you get my email the other day? After I emailed you another JE experience came to mind.
hey spdingtkts i added you on yahoo messenger if you dont mind ! i did not get your email about JE i also have this email address [email protected] thanks mate Jason
 

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99 Liners

Speed,

I am very interested in doing this very thing this winter. I was under the illusion :) that the 936 and 950's could be done with the Stock Cylinders. If I'm wrong then what is the most cost effective or best approach...in particular aftermarket liners and fitment vs. 2000 cylinder and replating.

Badass,

Since you've already spent the money before, are you totally against the 998? My goal is a reliable fast street application. I don't really care as 155-160HP would be the ideal goal and not the maximum that can be reached. It would be nice if the bike could get in the 9's with me on it but I'm not going to drag race it as a rule. I much prefer lean angles. Since I have a FZ1 then I'd like the 9 to be the one I have to spank some ass with when the time is right.

My 9 is a Blue 99 with 30,000 miles and the FZ1 is a 02 with 7,000 and the 9 has a stronger clutch & transmission (I think) plus being lower and less wheelie prone it is to be the Bully. The FZ1 has spanked 998 Ducs, R1's, ZRX's, and a GSXR750 but I think the 9 is better suited and a little lighter.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Re: 99 Liners

02Silver said:
Speed,

I am very interested in doing this very thing this winter. I was under the illusion :) that the 936 and 950's could be done with the Stock Cylinders. If I'm wrong then what is the most cost effective or best approach...in particular aftermarket liners and fitment vs. 2000 cylinder and replating.

Badass,

Since you've already spent the money before, are you totally against the 998? My goal is a reliable fast street application. I don't really care as 155-160HP would be the ideal goal and not the maximum that can be reached. It would be nice if the bike could get in the 9's with me on it but I'm not going to drag race it as a rule. I much prefer lean angles. Since I have a FZ1 then I'd like the 9 to be the one I have to spank some ass with when the time is right.

My 9 is a Blue 99 with 30,000 miles and the FZ1 is a 02 with 7,000 and the 9 has a stronger clutch & transmission (I think) plus being lower and less wheelie prone it is to be the Bully. The FZ1 has spanked 998 Ducs, R1's, ZRX's, and a GSXR750 but I think the 9 is better suited and a little lighter.
i cant believe you have a faster bike than your zx9 do you rev it to 12,550 in every gear? if not do it now you will spank every r1 silly ducati and gsxr1000's ass if you have a full system on...you will slaughter every thing this side of 300 bhp busa with 165 bhp from a 998kit but the fun dont last long...ps my bike is 162kg dry and has at best 166bhp when the kits on .....mental and yes it pulls 9 sec quarters with stock height and wheelbase, and power wheelies in 4th ..yummy !
 

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abadassbikerlad - For some reason, Yahoo would not let me reply to the email you sent me. I sent you an email from my main email address, [email protected]. I do check the Yahoo mail everyday though.

02 Silver - If your main concern is cornering I would say to concentrate on the suspension first, then take whatever money is left over and spend it on the engine.

Here are some things to think about. Even if you got a really shitty engine, you still should have over 125 hp. The hp is not slowing you down. You won't even use the stock engine 100%.

You do use your suspension 100% of the time. Even if you are just cruising to work a modified suspension can make the ride better in the way it just absorbs the bumps.

I would say and Ohlins shock, reworked forks would be the first priorty. Then I would replace the rear shock linkage. A good set of brake pads and hoses are a good addition also. Rearsets and magnesium wheels are good too.

When the Japanese build a bike, they look at the entire package - not just one component.
 

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WTF???

Badass,

I never said the FZ1 was so bad. It has also been beaten by a R6 with a 140# rider another FZ1 and a couple of others. It has reworked suspension and had a full Yosh TRS but right now has a Laser S/O, 2 up on the rear, Ivan's and other small stuff. I ws saying that the 9 will be a good Bully to handle the likes of other bikes. I don't know what you thought that I meant but I was saying the ZX9 will do a better job as a Sport Bike which is why I bought it. I had a piped, PC2, K&N'd 01 Busa that I sold to buy the FZ1. If it had been a R1, Fireblade, ZX9, or GSXR then I wouldn't have sold it.

You read something into what I meant. I got the ZX9 because it was like the FZ1 in a lot of ways but faster, better wind protection ect. I think for real riding they are among the best right now and can be modded to personal taste. I've read the stuff on your site and just wanted info on the engine mods for the winter.

Speed,

I understand the suspenion Mods point very well...Best Money Spent on the FZ1 by far. What are the front end mods everyone recommends? Springs, Oil, Gold Valves or just send it to California Suspenion or Traxxion?

I'd still like the kit options' information. Why is it that everyone that has a older ZX9 has to put a freaking 190 it. :) Mine had one on it and the spare rear wheel I just bought has one...WTF.
 

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My advise would be to send them to Traxxion Dynamics.

Race Tech sells the stuff to anyone so that you can install the stuff yourself but you really arent getting the same job as by sending the stuff out as there is some other stuff that you would do to the forks to make them work bettter than just installing a Gold Valve kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
hey spdingtkts are you about now ? can you tell me the dimensions on the thickness of the stock liner in the middle? Thanks
 

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I tried emailing you but it did not work.

The stock liner tapers down from 82 mm to 80.85 in the middle, 49 mm from the bottom of the flange.

The aftermarket liners I have stay 82 mm through the cylinder area and then tapers down near the bottom.

77.2 mm bore with a stock liner would be 1.8 mm thickness in the middle of the cylinder.
77.2 mm bore with the aftermarket liner would be 2.4 mm.

I have four aftermarket liners and a block with the stock liners removed. The coolant passages on the inside need to be opened up and then the liners installed and bored and honed.

Let me know if you are interested.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
spdingtkts said:
I tried emailing you but it did not work.

The stock liner tapers down from 82 mm to 80.85 in the middle, 49 mm from the bottom of the flange.

The aftermarket liners I have stay 82 mm through the cylinder area and then tapers down near the bottom.

77.2 mm bore with a stock liner would be 1.8 mm thickness in the middle of the cylinder.
77.2 mm bore with the aftermarket liner would be 2.4 mm.

I have four aftermarket liners and a block with the stock liners removed. The coolant passages on the inside need to be opened up and then the liners installed and bored and honed. i have a few blocks how much for the liners?

Let me know if you are interested.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
spdingtkts said:
I tried emailing you but it did not work.

The stock liner tapers down from 82 mm to 80.85 in the middle, 49 mm from the bottom of the flange.

The aftermarket liners I have stay 82 mm through the cylinder area and then tapers down near the bottom.

77.2 mm bore with a stock liner would be 1.8 mm thickness in the middle of the cylinder.
77.2 mm bore with the aftermarket liner would be 2.4 mm.

I have four aftermarket liners and a block with the stock liners removed. The coolant passages on the inside need to be opened up and then the liners installed and bored and honed. How much for the liners?

Let me know if you are interested.
 

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has anyone else done away with the base gasket i did on a zrx but is it possible on the z1000 also what is the best amount skimming off the head
 

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has anyone else done away with the base gasket i did on a zrx but is it possible on the z1000 also what is the best amount skimming off the head
I have not done this. But from pictures I looked at of the engine, it appears that the block is a separate component from the case. So a base shim/gasket may be present.
The real question will be, are you going to check clearances when you do this? By removing the base shim you move the head closer to the piston. PTH.
By milling the head you move the valves closer to the pistons. PTV.
By doing either of these mods you change the cam timing.
I would imagine there should be room to work with. But without checking it’s just a guess.

cmg
 

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yes i realise this but the base looks more involved and the start of the thread the member said he had done it just trying to get the info
 

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Should be straight forward. Remove the head. Mill 20thou.
Just lift the block off the case but do not slide it off the pistons. Use some snips to prune the base shim/gasket out. Clean both the block surface and case surface. Very light smear of sealant and settle the block back down. Measure the base gasket that you just sniped out, then you will know how much closer the piston is to the head. Probably 10thou on top of the factory PTH.

cmg
 
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