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Discussion Starter #1
my '06 zx-14 sure has a "clunky" ( for lack of a better term) tranny

sure, all the other kawis I have /have had do the 1st gear clunk but this is tough to shift smoothly in most every gear at most every speed

the clutch doesnt seem to drag ..........

common? anything i should try?

I use rotella T synth
 

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Never had a problem with either of my 14s trannys.much better than the 12s I've had. Do you still have the stock plates or did you go aftermarket cause that will do it.
 

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drain all the fluid from the clutch system. Put at least 4 turns of white Teflon tread tape on every bleeder,banjo thread.Bleed all the air out of the new fluid. I have had lots of unsealed system in my life.They tell you to rebuild every 4 years.
 

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Clunk is a given because the instant you pull the clutch in, both baskets still roll and 'clunk' goes a gear. Hold the clutch in longer, the center basket has time to stop, no clunk, or toned down some.

The tighter I made my chain, the cleaner the shifts. 1.4" is close to the sweet spot. Try that.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Never had a problem with either of my 14s trannys.much better than the 12s I've had. Do you still have the stock plates or did you go aftermarket cause that will do it.
Way worse then my 12.

I'll ask the previous owner about the plates
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Clunk is a given because the instant you pull the clutch in, both baskets still roll and 'clunk' goes a gear. Hold the clutch in longer, the center basket has time to stop, no clunk, or toned down some.

The tighter I made my chain, the cleaner the shifts. 1.4" is close to the sweet spot. Try that.
how long do you suggest i hold in the clutch between shifts?

;)
 

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how long do you suggest i hold in the clutch between shifts?;)
It's not between shifts, it's the initial 1st gear starting out. Each bike is different so find how long the lag time is so when stabbing 1st, she makes no noise at all.

I start with the bike in 1st = I experience no clunk.
I kill the engine at traffic lights where I have the bike in 1st then start it = No clunk.
I try to coast so 1st is timed in with the rear wheel and engine = Need more practice.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
the first gear kawi klunk isnt the deal, though it's worse on this one than any of the others


it does it between shifts too.

I think you may have hit on something about the chain tension as I have had to tighten it occasionally lately. I think Im going to replace the chain & sprox as they have 16000 m,iles on them anyways

at stop lights I have found , with the 12 & 10, that as Im about to put it in gear I slightly roll it a head a few inches as i put it in gear. If I havent had the clutch in long enough it helps keep the guy in the car next to me from wondering if my tranny just dropped on to the road.
 

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Clunk is a given because the instant you pull the clutch in, both baskets still roll and 'clunk' goes a gear. Hold the clutch in longer, the center basket has time to stop, no clunk, or toned down some.

The tighter I made my chain, the cleaner the shifts. 1.4" is close to the sweet spot. Try that.
Hub has it right. My 2012 is clunky if I shift fast but no clunk if I hold the clutch in longer. Clutch drag ???
 

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I have the same thing. I will have to try that too.
 

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how long do you suggest i hold in the clutch between shifts?
I had a seen your moment and focused on the clunk for N from a dead stop. I see now how I better connect the dots to this quote from the original question.

The way to shift from gear to gear is hardly pull the lever in. The other part is to match the throttle lift and return. So the performance setup would be: have zero throttle play or less than book spec. This has less time to twist back again so you more or less are hair triggering all 3 events. 4 really, but the sequence is done without thought.

1. Lift throttle
2. Pull lever just to break the plates
3 Shift all without thinking
4. Reapply throttle

That means the rear chain is the missing link to better shifts. Here is my experience with both. Both meaning the clutch basket designs. On the 1st gen 14's, these are a fixed basket. The 2nd gen baskets have the back torque design.

With the solid basket: my misshifts were constant with a pretty loose chain. Once I tightened the slack up, I could tell I had less false neutrals. Don't ask me how, it's gotta be simple to explain.

I broke-in the chain [loose slack] with the bottom rung whipping away. But this was with the back torque basket, now. I found the basket was following my lever when I would hardly pull the lever in.

If you think about it, the rollers sitting on this ramp, are now following their full, or almost full throw in the grooves of that ramp. So now, I feel this basket push the rollers back to their home, so the basket is now in solid setting.

With me neglecting to adjust so it plays out, I gave in and adjusted the chain a little. The basket feel at the lever subsided. The shift response was, can I say, 'dramatic' enough to WOW, what a shifting session I had after that!

So as to discuss shifting, it's all about the pack being fat. It's all about the warp finding N. It's all about the chain adjust, you won't believe how it [hardly takes] any lever pulling, let alone no clutch at all = Is that chain adjustment's sweet spot.
 

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I'll ask the previous owner about the plates
Visual:
You don't need to. Pop the oil cap off, look at the pressure plate. How deep into the outer basket is it? The more the pressure plate looks like it's about to extend past the fork braces of the clutch outer basket [think], the fatter the plates, the less wear. And that means: I catch N no problem vs. warped plates that push the pressure plate out. There is your hard to find N. What does the basket to pressure plate look like? Pull the clutch in and watch the action in the hole.

Test Ride:
I want my lever to extend way far away from the grip before engagement, I have lots of material that is stacked fat and not abused.

I'm looking to buy a used bike:
I feel the bike move when I hardly release the lever away from the grip? I have a thinned out pack/abused with low miles kind of pack.

So your shifting problem is more a chain adjust, or if finding N is a bitch, it's more the clutch pack: than bent forks that would make you pop out of gear. That would narrow it down to, 'I have a hard time finding N at a dead stop.' No, I have zero problems finding N with a hot engine, in heavy traffic, lots of stop and go, no, I can catch N any time. Which is it?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
no problem finding neutral.

going to focus on the chain

good info hubz, thanks

( and in english, no less! :) )
 
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