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Discussion Starter #1
Good evening all :-

problem :- unable to select third gear, when you do try too it locks the rear wheel

cause:-(unknown) in middle of strip down(just started in between work etc)

cure:- (unknown) as above.

I was wondering if anyone has a thread of a video and or photos of a step by step guide on stripping down a zx10r motor to remove the gearbox?

I have the zx10r manual but it is telling me to remove the cylinder head, my only assumption for this is that the head bolts may be similar to a k series rover engine where the bolts are long and are secured into multiple parts; but the manual does not state this.

I was just trying to split the crank cases and remove the gearbox with the clutch still intact as a whole unit if you get my drift so to speak. to assess the damage if any to the gears/selectors etc etc.

I have removed the bolts as stated in the manual to split the crank cases/ sump/lower cases to gain access to the gearbox however they remain firmly attatched to one another, rubber mallet applied to cases, block of wood with heavier hammer also to not success.

was wondering if anyone else stripped one without having to remove the head, clutch plates basket starter clutch etc.

kind regards

Mike.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
hi,

Nucleon St,

No i have not removed the ignition pick up coil, oil cooler which i assume you are reffering to is the housing that the oil filter screws onto is yes i have removed this to allow the engine to lie flat on the work bench, i have just started stripping the motor, and have removed the bolts which is says to in the manual but havent removed the clutch, starter clutch, selector rod and or the cylinder head which it states in the manual to remove to split the crank cases, just when i removed the sump it gives a clear view of the gear box, and looking at it with out removing the additional components mentioned above, the cases should just split but they do not.

so all i can assume now is that the cylinder head bolt screw right down into the crank cases (ie they might be long cylinder head bolts) im not bothered if i have to strip it all down as its only a few extra bolts in comparison to what has already been removed to get it to the stage im at. was just wondering if you had to remove everything as stated in the manual to split the cases.

kind regards

mike.
 

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Mike you'll have to point to me where the manual says you have to remove the cylinder head cause i cant find it.
The head has it's own M10 bolts(no 5 as refered to the manual) that screw on the cylinder face.No other parts are tightened with the cylinder head bolts.

As for the clutch,gear selector,no they do not have to be removed.

Aren't there any other symptoms when you operate the gearbox?While moving,If you hold the clutch can you shift to pass from 2nd gear to 4rth,5th,6th??

If not i'm guessing that your 2nd/4rth fork selector is bent and it cannot disengage 2nd gear.It is the left one on the stator side on you output shaft.

Do you have a quick shifter?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi Nucleaon,

Thanks for getting back

In the manual i went to :- crankshaft/transmission ( section 9)

then to subsection (9-10) crankcase splitting and under crankcase splitting it has the list of items to remove.

you can go from 2nd to 4th but it is very dangerous if you miss 4th locks the back wheel up, no quick shifter bike is bog standard, i am thinking that the selector fork is bent too, plus damage to the dogs as when removed the sump there was a smallish lump of aluminum (looked more like the edge of the crankcase) but no damage whatsoever to them (definitely came from in side the sump)

yeah regards to the cylinder head i didn't think it had to come off, as there is a quick engine rebuild of a zx10r motor on youtube and he had the head left on, just wondering why when i have removed all the bolts the cases are not splitting, might be because they need a little more gentle persuasion, i am trying to split by myself, so might wait to the weekend and get a hand lifting with my mate.
 

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Theres probably a couple of dowels or sealant holding the cases together, I always try to prise heads n stuff apart gently with a large screwdriver and I know the books tell you to use a rubber mallet but they've never worked for me.

I'm on my second 9r engine in my bike which I've nursed for its 25k and just like the one I blew up this one has started dropping out of 3rd on the odd occasion, kwacks these days seem to make a great motor but combine it with a heaposhit gearbox. I'm a former courier and put 100 k's on old GT550's in the eighties, revved the nuts off them all day long, clutchless changes total abuse and never had one fail in 10 years working and all they got was an oil change a week.

Also had a GPZ900R back then and it got the bum ragged off it and in three years n 23k the only fault was it boiled over on a roasting day stuck crawling through central london traffic, it appears nothing made today is built to last, they want your money but deny you the quality you think you're paying for. H
 

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Hazzo u got that right!! Used to b able to totally beat the piss out of Jap bikes and they'd always gladly come back for more plus they were cheap as shit to buy/maintain. Now u pay out the ass for a bike that's so freakin delicate, what r we paying for? Sensors and computers that tell us we're giving it to much throttle I'll cut the power for u! No thanks, keep all that crap off the bikes and pass the savings along to us please and thank you...
 
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