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First off, standard disclaimer…you’re trying to make something work that wasn’t designed for the application you’re making it work in therefore if anything goes wrong it’s not my fault. Also be warned that I’m a mechanical engineer so my knowledge of electrical circuits is extremely limited.
Secondly, thanks to almost_les for his writeup over HERE. If he hadn't already figured all this out, I sure as hell wouldn't have.
Thirdly, I apologize if this is really long and convoluted. I think like an engineer and it makes perfect sense in my head. As such, I'll try to answer questions as best I can.
That being said, on to the write-up!
Unfortunately, I did not take pictures when modifying the PCV cable but it is fairly straightforward. I had a full wiring harness from the previous owner that had a ton of bad wire splices so it was perfect as a donor harness for the cables. This write-up will go over how to take connectors from an old harness and wire them in to a PCV. I imagine the process is similar for cutting the connectors off of a PCIII, you just have to make sure you wire the correct wires.
Step 1) Cut the FI connectors off of the donor harness. You need both the male connector from injector harness and the female connector from the main harness. Grab some masking tape and label the male connector, “TO ECU” and the female connector, “TO FI”. No this isn’t backwards as the male connector is now plugging in to the main harness while the female connector is plugging in to the FI harness.
Step 2) Strip the ends of each cable on both connectors. I used a pocket knife and rolled the insulation over the blade with my thumb however a good pair of wire strippers is easier.
Step 3) Cut lengths of heat shrink about an inch long to cover all of the cables on the connectors. Slip the shrink wrap on each cable and slide as far from the stripped end as you can.
Step 4) Solder the following colored wires together on each connector. (i.e. orange on the male connector to orange on the female connector):
White/Red
Green/White
Yellow/Red
Orange
Brown/Red
Brown/White
Blue/White
Yellow/Black
Yellow/White
Brown/Black
You should have four wires on each connector now that are not soldered to anything.
Step 5) WITH THE EXCEPTION OF THE YELLOW/WHITE AND BROWN/BLACK WIRES, slide the heat shrink over the solder joints and heat with a heat gun/blow dryer/heat radiating from your solder gun/iron. Leave yellow/white and brown/black exposed for now.
Step 6) Cut the connectors off of the PCV! Be sure you leave plenty of cable length. I was able to cut it just before the Hyabusa injector connectors and had plenty of wire left to route it back to the trunk area. For the grounding ring terminal, take a pocket knife, Xacto knife or razor blade and gently cut the heat shrink off of the terminal. Cut away until you see both a solid black and Black/White wire. Snip the Black/White wire at the ring terminal and start working it out of the black sleeve. You’ll need to run this wire down near your connectors in a later step.
Step 7) Strip the wires on the PCV.
Step 8) Now we solder PCV wires to the connectors. This is why we labeled the connectors in step one. Solder the wires as follows:
Orange wire from PCV to Blue/Red wire on “TO ECU” connector
Yellow wire from PCV to Blue/Green wire on “TO ECU” connector
Green wire from PCV to Blue/Black wire on “TO ECU” connector
Blue wire from PCV to Blue/Yellow wire on “TO ECU” connector
White/Orange wire from PCV to Blue/Red wire on “TO FI” connector
White/Yellow wire from PCV to Blue/Green wire on “TO FI” connector
White/Green wire from PCV to Blue/Black wire on “TO FI” connector
White/Blue wire from PCV to Blue/Yellow wire on “TO FI” connector
Slip the heat shrink from step 3 over the solder joints and shrink with heat.
Step 9) Remember the Yellow/White and Brown/Black wires from step 5? Grab the grey wire from the PCV and solder it to that joint. Do the same thing soldering the Black/White wire from the PCV to the Brown/Black joint. Be careful here that you don’t mess up the existing solder joint on these two connections.
Step 10) Slip the heat shrink over the joints with the three wires as best you can and heat them on.
Step 11) Almost done! Now we just need to route ground and power. I tapped in to the rear tail light because (again) I had an extra tail light connector and harness lying around so I could make a pig-tail connector similar to what the PCIII uses to tap in to the rear brake light. Basically, any fused, switched power source will do. Be sure to use your heat shrink so the connection stays strong and sealed from moisture.
Step 12) Run the ground wire to a good ground source. I ran it directly to the negative battery terminal. There’s a casting hole or whatever near the battery box that is perfect for feeding grounding cables through and attaching to the battery.
Step 13) Plug your “TO ECU” and “TO FI” connectors in to the main harness and FI harness respectively. Arrange the connectors so the tank doesn’t hit them.
Step 14) Grab your beverage of choice cuz you’re done!
Step 15) After you sober up, you need to make a map. almost_les wrote up how to get a PCIII map in to the PCV software but I’ll reiterate and expand. Open the PCIII map in the PCIII software and copy all of the tables. Open a zero map in the PCV software and paste all of the values.
One thing to note is that the PCV does 10%, 15%, and 20% throttle positions while the PCIII goes from 10% straight to 20%. I didn’t notice this at first and could not figure out why the bike fell flat on its face when I went WOT. The map values didn’t copy to the 100% position. I copied 2-10% from the PCIII to the PCV then copied 20-100% in separate batches. Then I copied the 10% to the 15% column and all’s good.
Secondly, thanks to almost_les for his writeup over HERE. If he hadn't already figured all this out, I sure as hell wouldn't have.
Thirdly, I apologize if this is really long and convoluted. I think like an engineer and it makes perfect sense in my head. As such, I'll try to answer questions as best I can.
That being said, on to the write-up!
Unfortunately, I did not take pictures when modifying the PCV cable but it is fairly straightforward. I had a full wiring harness from the previous owner that had a ton of bad wire splices so it was perfect as a donor harness for the cables. This write-up will go over how to take connectors from an old harness and wire them in to a PCV. I imagine the process is similar for cutting the connectors off of a PCIII, you just have to make sure you wire the correct wires.
Step 1) Cut the FI connectors off of the donor harness. You need both the male connector from injector harness and the female connector from the main harness. Grab some masking tape and label the male connector, “TO ECU” and the female connector, “TO FI”. No this isn’t backwards as the male connector is now plugging in to the main harness while the female connector is plugging in to the FI harness.
Step 2) Strip the ends of each cable on both connectors. I used a pocket knife and rolled the insulation over the blade with my thumb however a good pair of wire strippers is easier.
Step 3) Cut lengths of heat shrink about an inch long to cover all of the cables on the connectors. Slip the shrink wrap on each cable and slide as far from the stripped end as you can.
Step 4) Solder the following colored wires together on each connector. (i.e. orange on the male connector to orange on the female connector):
White/Red
Green/White
Yellow/Red
Orange
Brown/Red
Brown/White
Blue/White
Yellow/Black
Yellow/White
Brown/Black
You should have four wires on each connector now that are not soldered to anything.
Step 5) WITH THE EXCEPTION OF THE YELLOW/WHITE AND BROWN/BLACK WIRES, slide the heat shrink over the solder joints and heat with a heat gun/blow dryer/heat radiating from your solder gun/iron. Leave yellow/white and brown/black exposed for now.
Step 6) Cut the connectors off of the PCV! Be sure you leave plenty of cable length. I was able to cut it just before the Hyabusa injector connectors and had plenty of wire left to route it back to the trunk area. For the grounding ring terminal, take a pocket knife, Xacto knife or razor blade and gently cut the heat shrink off of the terminal. Cut away until you see both a solid black and Black/White wire. Snip the Black/White wire at the ring terminal and start working it out of the black sleeve. You’ll need to run this wire down near your connectors in a later step.
Step 7) Strip the wires on the PCV.
Step 8) Now we solder PCV wires to the connectors. This is why we labeled the connectors in step one. Solder the wires as follows:
Orange wire from PCV to Blue/Red wire on “TO ECU” connector
Yellow wire from PCV to Blue/Green wire on “TO ECU” connector
Green wire from PCV to Blue/Black wire on “TO ECU” connector
Blue wire from PCV to Blue/Yellow wire on “TO ECU” connector
White/Orange wire from PCV to Blue/Red wire on “TO FI” connector
White/Yellow wire from PCV to Blue/Green wire on “TO FI” connector
White/Green wire from PCV to Blue/Black wire on “TO FI” connector
White/Blue wire from PCV to Blue/Yellow wire on “TO FI” connector
Slip the heat shrink from step 3 over the solder joints and shrink with heat.
Step 9) Remember the Yellow/White and Brown/Black wires from step 5? Grab the grey wire from the PCV and solder it to that joint. Do the same thing soldering the Black/White wire from the PCV to the Brown/Black joint. Be careful here that you don’t mess up the existing solder joint on these two connections.
Step 10) Slip the heat shrink over the joints with the three wires as best you can and heat them on.
Step 11) Almost done! Now we just need to route ground and power. I tapped in to the rear tail light because (again) I had an extra tail light connector and harness lying around so I could make a pig-tail connector similar to what the PCIII uses to tap in to the rear brake light. Basically, any fused, switched power source will do. Be sure to use your heat shrink so the connection stays strong and sealed from moisture.
Step 12) Run the ground wire to a good ground source. I ran it directly to the negative battery terminal. There’s a casting hole or whatever near the battery box that is perfect for feeding grounding cables through and attaching to the battery.
Step 13) Plug your “TO ECU” and “TO FI” connectors in to the main harness and FI harness respectively. Arrange the connectors so the tank doesn’t hit them.
Step 14) Grab your beverage of choice cuz you’re done!
Step 15) After you sober up, you need to make a map. almost_les wrote up how to get a PCIII map in to the PCV software but I’ll reiterate and expand. Open the PCIII map in the PCIII software and copy all of the tables. Open a zero map in the PCV software and paste all of the values.
One thing to note is that the PCV does 10%, 15%, and 20% throttle positions while the PCIII goes from 10% straight to 20%. I didn’t notice this at first and could not figure out why the bike fell flat on its face when I went WOT. The map values didn’t copy to the 100% position. I copied 2-10% from the PCIII to the PCV then copied 20-100% in separate batches. Then I copied the 10% to the 15% column and all’s good.
hno:
