Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 oil - Kawasaki Forum :: KawasakiWorld.com
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post #1 of 12 Old 05-27-2013, 05:33 AM Thread Starter
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Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 oil

Hey guys, sorry for yet another oil thread. Just had a quick question. I read on a few threads that people are running shell rotella t 5w-40 oil in there 12's. Ive been searching online and see that shell has a rotella t6 5w-40 oil and im not sure if its just an improved version over the regular T. For info on the oil it says for deisel engines which has me confused because in the reviews a lot of people talk about running it in there bikes. I guess my question is, is this the right oil? I can get it locally at walmart. This is the link i found. Ill be doing an oil change tomorrow since im dropping the oil pan as well so if i can get the oil close to home that would be easiest. My last oil change consitsted of kawasaki genuine oil non synthetic 10w-40. And heard good reviews on the rotella.

Get the Shell Rotella Motor Oil for less at Walmart.com. Save money. Live better.
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post #2 of 12 Old 05-27-2013, 06:12 AM
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Rotella T is the 15-40 dyno oil. T6 is the full synthetic 5-40. Shell went the extra mile and had it tested for a JASO-MA rating. This means it's OK to use in any bike requiring the JASO spec oil. A JASO spec oil is what Kawasaki recommends for our ZX-12R. It's a damn good oil. You can buy it just about anywhere. It's inexpensive compared to the other motorcycle specific oils out there. Tons of peope use it and have NO issues.

There is a ZX6 owner on my local sport bike forum that has run nothing but Rotella. He just tore the engine down, and the internals were spotless. Are ya ready for this, 250,000+ miles on the damn motor, on Rotella oil. I have yet to find any motorcycle engine failures related to using Rotella oil.

Last edited by beantown; 05-27-2013 at 06:24 AM.
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post #3 of 12 Old 05-27-2013, 12:29 PM
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I've been running T6 for over 15,000 miles. As stated it is rated by JASO (Similar to the American SAE) for motorcycle use and a wet clutch. Good stuff, easy to find anywhere, and sometimes it's on sale for $19.99 a gallon vs the $13 a quart I used to pay for Amsoil.

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post #4 of 12 Old 05-27-2013, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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I just picked some up at my local walmart. They had a gallon for $21. Not to bad. Ive heard good things about it so figured might as well give it a shot. Although i may not even be lucky enough to get to ride it after the oil change. I have my oil pan gasket comming tomorrow. Im checking for any possible metal shavings in the pan and im also cutting open the filter. Theres a noise im not liking so i want to see if any damage is being done. I have all the info on another thread which ill be updating with pictures too as i go along of my findings. I just wanted to get some good oil at a good price. Thanks for the opinions guys.
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post #5 of 12 Old 05-28-2013, 09:20 AM
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T6 is great. I run the synthetic 5w-40 in the winter time but I use the conventional dino oil Rotella T here in the southern US in the summer. It gets stupid hot out and I feel scared running my bike on sewing machine oil until it gets up to temp. most engine wear is from warming the engine up and that's when the 5w comes to play. just my 2cents. I notice gear shifts on the Zed were a little better using the 5w-40 over the winter but I just can't let myself trust the 5w.... I wish they made a 15-50 synthetic. That would be perfect for summer down here. Oh well...
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post #6 of 12 Old 06-14-2018, 05:31 PM
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So, I recognize that this is an older post, but I think I may be able to offer some insight into the ever ongoing discussions around using Rotella T6 5w40 in high performance sport bikes.
I currently own a slightly modified 2000 ZX12R - Model "A1" production run..... and yes, Kawasaki rushed this first "A1" production run of 2000 on purpose to beat the European gentlemans agreement around top speed restrictions. My ZX12R is void of any factory top speed restrictions. With the added pipe, K&N intake, and "chip" it'll easily clear 200mph!
Anyway, I am also a process operator for Shell Lubricants! Yes, I blend and package the infamous Rotella T6 5w40. Now, I am legally not able to reveal the actual molecular components and quantities in the finished product but I can give some information as to why it is one of the best choices available on the market.
1st Shell's method of synthesizing base oil at the molecular level is the best in the industry. This process provides a base oil that flows easier and more consistently at extreme temperatures, but the best part is the way in which the oil molecules are also designed to hold together in longer "strands". This means that in high pressure, high temperatures, high performance / speed applications the body of the oil won't "shear" / break apart. This "shearing" in many oils is what causes many oils to retain air.... It sometimes looks like foam. Air in your oil can seriously reduce lubrication, increasing friction, which creates heat. This will literally "kill" your engine, and can easily occur with a regular / conventional multi grade oil. T6 also has a unique additive package that protects and supports the same type of high performance characteristics. It also contains just a touch of an additional "anit-foam" additive just to ensure "shearing" prevention. T6 is simply one of the best high performance (and multi-use) oils on the market..... I wouldn't use anything else!
The next thing to mention is that all motorcycle oils meet a specific standard, and they are "good" oils. But Yamaha, Kawasaki, Suzuki, or any other manufacture do not build any oil of their own. They simply just don't have the facilities to blend, package, warehouse, and test "their" oils.... They are ALL a rebrand of a compatible oil from another company! Shell Rotella products of any kind or grade are NEVER rebranded. They are Shell's flagship and proprietary products and are never anything else. Basically, you're not likely going to get the same superior quality oil from any bottle that doesn't have the oil manufacturers name on it. The oil manufacturers top tier products are their own bread and butter, they are their own marketing. They can't afford to risk losing that perception by someone finding out that they can get the same (or perhaps better) quality oil for a different price under a different name. Marketing suicide!
With proper maintenance and regular service using Rotella T6 5w40 you will never have a failure caused by your engine oil..... listen, I get paid either way, so buy it or don't buy it..... But I've used it, and I've used it HARD! I bring in, sample all of the individual base oils and additives, I blend the recipe, sample and package the finished product..... And I've seen the lab results for this oil, that's why "I" use it!
It's literally the "1" thing that I never worry about riding my Rocket...... And we all know that with all the crazies driving out there, 1 less thing to worry about when you twist it hard is a good thing!
Ride Safe 1st, Then Fast!
Cheers Guys!
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Last edited by Firefighter39; 06-14-2018 at 06:26 PM.
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post #7 of 12 Old 06-15-2018, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firefighter39 View Post
So, I recognize that this is an older post, but I think I may be able to offer some insight into the ever ongoing discussions around using Rotella T6 5w40 in high performance sport bikes.
I currently own a slightly modified 2000 ZX12R - Model "A1" production run..... and yes, Kawasaki rushed this first "A1" production run of 2000 on purpose to beat the European gentlemans agreement around top speed restrictions. My ZX12R is void of any factory top speed restrictions. With the added pipe, K&N intake, and "chip" it'll easily clear 200mph!
Anyway, I am also a process operator for Shell Lubricants! Yes, I blend and package the infamous Rotella T6 5w40. Now, I am legally not able to reveal the actual molecular components and quantities in the finished product but I can give some information as to why it is one of the best choices available on the market.
1st Shell's method of synthesizing base oil at the molecular level is the best in the industry. This process provides a base oil that flows easier and more consistently at extreme temperatures, but the best part is the way in which the oil molecules are also designed to hold together in longer "strands". This means that in high pressure, high temperatures, high performance / speed applications the body of the oil won't "shear" / break apart. This "shearing" in many oils is what causes many oils to retain air.... It sometimes looks like foam. Air in your oil can seriously reduce lubrication, increasing friction, which creates heat. This will literally "kill" your engine, and can easily occur with a regular / conventional multi grade oil. T6 also has a unique additive package that protects and supports the same type of high performance characteristics. It also contains just a touch of an additional "anit-foam" additive just to ensure "shearing" prevention. T6 is simply one of the best high performance (and multi-use) oils on the market..... I wouldn't use anything else!
The next thing to mention is that all motorcycle oils meet a specific standard, and they are "good" oils. But Yamaha, Kawasaki, Suzuki, or any other manufacture do not build any oil of their own. They simply just don't have the facilities to blend, package, warehouse, and test "their" oils.... They are ALL a rebrand of a compatible oil from another company! Shell Rotella products of any kind or grade are NEVER rebranded. They are Shell's flagship and proprietary products and are never anything else. Basically, you're not likely going to get the same superior quality oil from any bottle that doesn't have the oil manufacturers name on it. The oil manufacturers top tier products are their own bread and butter, they are their own marketing. They can't afford to risk losing that perception by someone finding out that they can get the same (or perhaps better) quality oil for a different price under a different name. Marketing suicide!
With proper maintenance and regular service using Rotella T6 5w40 you will never have a failure caused by your engine oil..... listen, I get paid either way, so buy it or don't buy it..... But I've used it, and I've used it HARD! I bring in, sample all of the individual base oils and additives, I blend the recipe, sample and package the finished product..... And I've seen the lab results for this oil, that's why "I" use it!
It's literally the "1" thing that I never worry about riding my Rocket...... And we all know that with all the crazies driving out there, 1 less thing to worry about when you twist it hard is a good thing!
Ride Safe 1st, Then Fast!
Cheers Guys!
Interesting read. I once had a lecture from a representative of Repsol at my college but he never really explained why his oil was better than a similar oil from another brand other than a standard "our oil is ze bestest'. I won't be changing my oil until I've rebuild my engine but I'm tempted now to give Shell a try. I'm currently using a basic Putoline oil and had considered using a premium oil and maybe even a 10W50 but having to rebuild my engine put that on hold. As an expert I'll be curious to know your experience between a W40 or a W50, care to share?
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post #8 of 12 Old 06-17-2018, 06:33 AM
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W40 vs W50 question.
So, just to clarify..... The numbers on a multi-grade oil do stand for something! Using the example of 5w40 the "5w" stands for the viscosity at "cold" temps (w=winter), the 2nd number "40" is the viscosity rating at 100C. Many think that this number is "summer", and others think it's at engine running temperature, but that's not really it either. The industry selects 100C because different engines operate at different temperatures and things like climate change regularly, which would make the "gauge" of the specifican way too broad and varying. On both numbers the lower the number, the lower the viscosity (the thinner the oil).
So, a lower cold rating (5w) is good for cold starts and should be the standard for almost all motorcycle applications. (perhaps a delivery person who'd be making many frequent warm engine starts should have higher, ie:10w)
The higher number (the "40 vs 50" question) is the trickier one. The thicker the oil at operating temperature, the better it clings, therefore the better it lubricate..... Sort of! Also, the thicker the oil, the harder it is to move..... pump, filter, and circulate through the motor! And after you consider that you need to remember that the spec is @ 100C..... well below engine operating temperature. In reality, the higher above 100C your engine gets the lower that 2nd number will be.
Given all of that..... If you're bike is not liquid cooled or you live in Arizona or Texas I would totally recommend a "50" weight oil. But for most liquid cooled bikes on a regular hot summer day I would recommend a high quality synthetic "40" weight oil. This will provide more than sufficient viscosity and lubrication, and still be fluid enough to properly circulate and pushed through your filter.
My apologies for the length of the post, but I hope it provides some helpful understanding to your questions.
Cheers!
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post #9 of 12 Old 06-17-2018, 11:21 AM
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Thanks for clarifying and I don't mind the long post. I'll just stick with the 10w40 but of higher grade then. The part about 5w is interesting, I never thought about it that way as for my daily bike which I also ride all year around I guess I might consider a colder grade oil.
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post #10 of 12 Old 06-18-2018, 07:35 PM
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I wasn't gonna, I wasn't gonna do it, told myself "don't do it, do NOT get involved in an oil thread", but I can't help it! I'm taking the bait, the line AND the sinker.

"Shell Rotella products of any kind or grade are NEVER rebranded"

Now there's a very good chance that I'm mistaken, as I am not a Professional in the Oil Industry but does Shell not sell to Canadian Tire anymore?

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post #11 of 12 Old 06-22-2018, 02:30 AM
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Ok..... I'm only able to say that.... Shell has and does sometimes provide products to 3rd party customers under their own brand. As do many other lubricant suppliers..... As well as millions of other companies with millions of of other products.
But "Rotella" products are not "rebranded". Just FYI, Shell also owns Pennzoil & Quaker State as well, and those are not rebranded either.
I hope that helps.... I can only provide so much.
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post #12 of 12 Old 06-22-2018, 07:30 AM
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Thank you!

Never underestimate old guys on old bikes.
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