Expert Level: 2002 Engine Rebuild - Page 4 - Kawasaki Forum :: KawasakiWorld.com
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post #46 of 93 Old 06-17-2018, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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Yup, cmg, I have been cleaning diligently as I work my way around the case. The dirtiest was the throttle body, because it has so many nooks and crannies, so many hidden surfaces. I even cleaned two of the three remaining pistons, which had some buildup. I hung them over the side of the case and scraped them down, with the debris falling onto some newspaper. It's looking pretty clean externally.

So, you say I don't have to remove the basket, but the manual says to remove it, and the external shift mechanism behind it. Why do you believe it says to remove that, if it's unnecessary? So far, I saw that removing the starter motor and the oil cooler gained access to case bolts, and the camshaft sensor bridged the split line, with a bolt on either side. In those cases, it was necessary.

I had my eye on that Dewalt a couple years ago, when I wanted to remove my truck's shocks for replacement. I didn't pull that trigger though, and once again it looks like I need it. I rarely need that torque, but it's a sweet tool. I'm not sure I have an alternative, but damn, wasn't looking to spend $300 on a drill and battery with charger. Yikes.
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post #47 of 93 Old 06-17-2018, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by quinocampa View Post
Yup, cmg, I have been cleaning diligently as I work my way around the case. The dirtiest was the throttle body, because it has so many nooks and crannies, so many hidden surfaces. I even cleaned two of the three remaining pistons, which had some buildup. I hung them over the side of the case and scraped them down, with the debris falling onto some newspaper. It's looking pretty clean externally.

So, you say I don't have to remove the basket, but the manual says to remove it, and the external shift mechanism behind it. Why do you believe it says to remove that, if it's unnecessary? So far, I saw that removing the starter motor and the oil cooler gained access to case bolts, and the camshaft sensor bridged the split line, with a bolt on either side. In those cases, it was necessary.

I had my eye on that Dewalt a couple years ago, when I wanted to remove my truck's shocks for replacement. I didn't pull that trigger though, and once again it looks like I need it. I rarely need that torque, but it's a sweet tool. I'm not sure I have an alternative, but damn, wasn't looking to spend $300 on a drill and battery with charger. Yikes.


You can use a pair like these to hold the alternator still and loosen the bolt, just be sure you extent your socketwrench for more leverage in case you don't have an airwrench. For the clutch I used an airwrench but if you have old clutch plates you can weld/bolt them together to luck up the clutch from moving.

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post #48 of 93 Old 06-17-2018, 12:45 PM
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Yup, cmg, I have been cleaning diligently as I work my way around the case. The dirtiest was the throttle body, because it has so many nooks and crannies, so many hidden surfaces. I even cleaned two of the three remaining pistons, which had some buildup. I hung them over the side of the case and scraped them down, with the debris falling onto some newspaper. It's looking pretty clean externally.

So, you say I don't have to remove the basket, but the manual says to remove it, and the external shift mechanism behind it. Why do you believe it says to remove that, if it's unnecessary? So far, I saw that removing the starter motor and the oil cooler gained access to case bolts, and the camshaft sensor bridged the split line, with a bolt on either side. In those cases, it was necessary.

I had my eye on that Dewalt a couple years ago, when I wanted to remove my truck's shocks for replacement. I didn't pull that trigger though, and once again it looks like I need it. I rarely need that torque, but it's a sweet tool. I'm not sure I have an alternative, but damn, wasn't looking to spend $300 on a drill and battery with charger. Yikes.
cmg
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post #49 of 93 Old 06-18-2018, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
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Hard to argue with that, cmg. The inside of your engine looks so pretty, mine isn't that nice gunmetal gray. At least I don't think so.

So...You just left on the basket and the alternator, and removed the bolts and split the case? That would be so much easier.

Also, still not sure what measurement to take on the clutch stack.
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post #50 of 93 Old 06-18-2018, 01:29 PM
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I believe you remove all the plates, stack them up on the bench and then measure the height

2006 ZX-12R B6F
Ohlins / TRAXXION Dynamics / NISSIN / HEL / Power Commander / Bear Racing / Akrapovic / BMC / Muzzy / Healtech / ERMAX / Helibars / GSG / R&G / NUI Racing
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post #51 of 93 Old 06-18-2018, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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Also, another thing. Since I am splitting the case, I continue to consider which items to replace.
One person has suggested I replace the 10 long bolts for the cylinder head. The manual does not say
they are torqued past yield, and doesn't say to replace them if the head is removed. My friend
says he has had trouble with leaks if he didn't replace, and that the $100 cost is reasonable to avoid
problems. I say, if they were not torqued past yield, they are fine. If Kawasaki does not say to replace
them, they are fine. What say you?
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post #52 of 93 Old 06-18-2018, 03:02 PM
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I didn't replace mine but if you use oem headgasket I doubt it will leak. What's to say the person that had it leaking used shoddy quality gasket and blamed it on the bolts...
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post #53 of 93 Old 06-18-2018, 07:00 PM
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reuse the bolts with a new gasket
if doing a lot of high performance mods then studs are required.

01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 on dot tires, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, 55 shot... turbo 8.32 @ 173
00 ZX-12R 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Worlds Fastest NA Kawasaki
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Worlds fastest ZX-12R CMG Racing RCC Turbos
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post #54 of 93 Old 06-21-2018, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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Conn Rod Markings

I have considered replacing the rod under the damaged piston, #4. I have a full set from a donor bike, and I know they have to be weight matched. In the photo of the installed rods, you can clearly see the "K" for weight and the circle around it for the bearings.

On the donor set, no letter mark is clear, and a circle *might* be legible on a couple of them. Mostly, they look like big burn blasts. Is this sketchy at all? I would rather take my chances with my original rod than install something sketchy.
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post #55 of 93 Old 06-21-2018, 08:34 PM
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inspect the bearings on the rod in question and post pics. might be fine, may just need new bearings. a lot of times with minor bearing damage, the rod is perfectly fine.

01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 on dot tires, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, 55 shot... turbo 8.32 @ 173
00 ZX-12R 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Worlds Fastest NA Kawasaki
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Worlds fastest ZX-12R CMG Racing RCC Turbos
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post #56 of 93 Old 06-21-2018, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
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Crankshaft Markings for Bearings

I was reviewing my crankshaft for the bearing markings for main journal diameters. The options are "1" or nothing. For the crankpin diameter marks, the options are "O" or nothing. So for the journal 1 of 5, and crankpin for piston #1, I find TWO "1"s and a "K" ! WTF. Now, maybe it is a coincidence, but my connecting rods are marked "K" for weight.

The predicament this puts me in is that I am now uncertain which bearings to buy for replacement / reconditioning. There are also no marks anywhere else on the crankshaft, at least not "1" or "O". There are some white paint marks.

So, since I know the bearings can be blue, brown, or black, are these colors obvious on the bearings, so I could simply identify the colors and replace with same?
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post #57 of 93 Old 06-22-2018, 03:04 PM
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the k on the crank is not a size mark. its part of the forging. youre looking for STAMPED marks on the crank for journal sizes

01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 on dot tires, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, 55 shot... turbo 8.32 @ 173
00 ZX-12R 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Worlds Fastest NA Kawasaki
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Worlds fastest ZX-12R CMG Racing RCC Turbos
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post #58 of 93 Old 06-22-2018, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you Scott, it's obvious now that you've said it. One of the 1's and the K are both part of the forging.
The other 1 is stamped.

You have the valve springs for sale, right?
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post #59 of 93 Old 06-23-2018, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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How to Separate Crankcase Halves?

Okay, I have all the crankcase bolts removed, and the engine is upside down. It's ready to split the halves. But, I can't figure out how to pull them apart. I can't pry them because there are no pry tabs. Manual says to go around with a mallet, but the engine is on a table, so I can't tap the lower half off the upper half. If I were to lift it up slightly, it would have to be supported somehow while I tapped, and supported only by the upper half so the halves separate. Hoping there's an easy answer. Obviously CMG got his apart, but looks like he had it on a stand? Shouldn't be any different, you can't push the lower half away from the upper, and lifting the upper lifts the whole thing.
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Last edited by quinocampa; 06-23-2018 at 05:17 PM. Reason: Pics weren't uploaded
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post #60 of 93 Old 06-23-2018, 05:32 PM
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Take the two 6mm bolts that hold down the case breather out.

Just tap all around with the rubber mallet as you pull up on the case half. Work your way around the engine.

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