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post #61 of 93 Old 06-23-2018, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
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I figured out a way to prop up the upper half, using one of the engine mount bolts.
I knocked the bottom down, then I was able to separate them.

My biggest anxiety now is getting the transmission back together correctly, when I
am ready to put the halves back together.
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post #62 of 93 Old 06-23-2018, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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CMG, is the breather that tall black tube? I lifted the upper half up and off of it. If I can remove it, I'll do that
before I put the halves back together.
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post #63 of 93 Old 06-23-2018, 05:13 PM
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Was in neutral when split? If so the forks will hang nicely, and drop into the slots.
May have to just slide the gears to the left/right a very little bit for alignment. Not a issue.

What do the bearings look like?

cmg
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post #64 of 93 Old 06-23-2018, 07:51 PM
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pick it up slightly, hit down on the half thats closest to the table.
i take mine apart upside down too

01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 on dot tires, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, 55 shot... turbo 8.32 @ 173
00 ZX-12R 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Worlds Fastest NA Kawasaki
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Worlds fastest ZX-12R CMG Racing RCC Turbos
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post #65 of 93 Old 06-24-2018, 06:20 AM Thread Starter
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Sunday morning now, I'm gonna have a look at the bearings before noon.
I intend to replace all the crankshaft bearings, whether absolutely necessary or not.

CMG, I *think* it was in neutral. The two center gears were centered, and not to the left or right.
I only saw the fork in the middle, between the two of those gears. Neglected to take a picture too.

I'll read up on the manual for getting it back together correctly.
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post #66 of 93 Old 06-24-2018, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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Rod bearings looked good, or normal for 48,000 miles / 16 years. #4, which pulverized the valve bits, didn't look any different than the others.
All crankshaft bearings also looked normal for the mileage. All these bearings have wear, and since I'm in there, they'll be replaced.

Time to review my bill of material and place the order.

If anyone wants to donate for 86mm pistons and cylinders, Carillo rods, and a ported head with upgraded valves and springs, I'd much appreciate it, thanks!

#bulletproof
#maybe
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post #67 of 93 Old 06-24-2018, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
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In order to clean the parting line of the crankcase half on the table, I removed the crankshaft and the transmission shaft that includes the clutch.
I left the other transmission shaft in the case. Now I have put the clutch shaft back into the case, no crankshaft yet because I'll be replacing those bearings.

So I started rotating the clutch / drive shaft just to watch the gears. I noticed the clutch is making a clickety-clack noise. It increases the faster I rotate it.
If I rotate it fast enough, it'll stop, assuming rotational force has pushed something outward enough that it doesn't shift. Then slowing down it'll clickety-clack again.
It's fairly rhythmic, so it doesn't sound like a broken piece randomly falling around.

Is there a reasonable explanation? I hadn't planned on taking off the clutch plate at this time. I didn't drop it or anything.
No reason it should make noise unless it's supposed to, but I am not aware of a mechanism in there that would explain this.

Last edited by quinocampa; 06-24-2018 at 02:35 PM.
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post #68 of 93 Old 06-24-2018, 03:44 PM
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If you look on the back of the clutch basket you will see evenly spaced cups. Inside of these are dampening springs. The springs are rattling

cmg
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post #69 of 93 Old 06-24-2018, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I took it all apart, and isolated it to the basket. Are those dampening springs SUPPOSED to rattle like that??
If so, man, I could've saved lots of time and trouble, but at least I know what it's all about now.

So it's normal or broken?
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post #70 of 93 Old 06-24-2018, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
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I read quite a few posts online about damper springs in clutch baskets. The rattle is common I guess.
Not sure if they're no longer effective, or...? They've been loose for a long time, not sure what a new
basket it like.

So, new question. It was recommended to me to get the valve seats of my donor cylinder head recut.
The bike, if I'm to trust the source, had 26,500 miles on it. It's another $300 maybe. I'm not
convinced it's necessary. My original had 7 more years worth of miles on it, not sure if any
normal operation symptoms were the cause of worn seats. Is this service something I should consider??
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post #71 of 93 Old 06-24-2018, 06:20 PM
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just about every used and perfectly serviceable basket rattles like that with the springs in the back loose. think of those springs as a cush drive in the rear wheel. a bit of slop when going from accelerating to engine braking.
i would just lap the valves and see what the contact looks like. have to be careful with valve jobs. car shops can mess it up in a hurry sinking the valves out of sight.

01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 on dot tires, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, 55 shot... turbo 8.32 @ 173
00 ZX-12R 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Worlds Fastest NA Kawasaki
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Worlds fastest ZX-12R CMG Racing RCC Turbos
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post #72 of 93 Old 07-09-2018, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
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Cylinder Installation

Hello,

I am not yet ready to install the cylinders, but I will be soon. I have some question about the process. When installing the pistons either by hand or with the ring collapsing tools, the manual says to first install two cylinder head bolts. First, the bolts in the illustration have no heads, they are just rods threaded at the bottom. Second, they were not a part of the engine originally. Third, they're going into holes later reserved for the ACTUAL cylinder head bolts. So...what are these bolts? I can see that they serve as guides when easing down the cylinders and squeezing the rings into the bores.

What's the deal here???
Attached Images
File Type: jpg CylinderA.JPG (67.1 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg CylinderB.JPG (69.5 KB, 9 views)
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post #73 of 93 Old 07-09-2018, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quinocampa View Post
Hello,

I am not yet ready to install the cylinders, but I will be soon. I have some question about the process. When installing the pistons either by hand or with the ring collapsing tools, the manual says to first install two cylinder head bolts. First, the bolts in the illustration have no heads, they are just rods threaded at the bottom. Second, they were not a part of the engine originally. Third, they're going into holes later reserved for the ACTUAL cylinder head bolts. So...what are these bolts? I can see that they serve as guides when easing down the cylinders and squeezing the rings into the bores.

What's the deal here???
I'd just use a steel rod of the correct diameter, doesn't have to be the bolt. It's just used to help manoeuvre the cilinder head over the pistons. After the head is fixed in place you pull out the rod and install the bolt.
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post #74 of 93 Old 07-09-2018, 03:53 PM
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Did you put the pistons on the rods? Are the rods on the crank? Did you assemble the case halves?

cmg

Last edited by color me gone; 07-09-2018 at 04:12 PM.
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post #75 of 93 Old 07-09-2018, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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RMK,
you say that like it's easy to find rods of the correct size...?

CMG,
All bearing inserts for rods and crank have been changed. Rods are on crank, torqued plus 120.

I did not assemble case halves, because I decided to buy the Three Bond 1207B gasket compound after some hand wringing. It arrives tomorrow.

Meanwhile, I pulled all the valves from the cylinder head, so that I can clean them and clean the valve seats of any carbon buildup. I am not sure how thorough I am going to try and be, because I don't want to generate too much loose carbon, and I want to be careful not to remove any metal. I think I will use either Scotch-Brite or perhaps a brass brush. I am surveying other techniques online, with the understanding that not everyone does it the right way.

So, I have turned the corner, and I am beginning to reassemble things. So far, so good.
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