Fault code 51 - Kawasaki Forum :: KawasakiWorld.com
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post #1 of 19 Old 07-16-2018, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
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Fault code 51

I need your help on this one guys.

Was out riding today when the bike started to run rough. When I stopped it smoked like crazy from the battery box. Called the firebrigade because I stopped surrounded by dry trees n shit, My lithium battery popped.
Got home cleaned the bike put a new battery in, a good old led one. Measured the regulator and it pumped out 20+ volts. Guess thats what killed the other battery. Put in a new regulator that leaves good voltage around 14v.

Now to my problem. I get a fault code 51 that means the left side coil. Measured between ecu and coil connector continuity and ok. Switched coils between 1 and 2 still 51 in error code. Removed spark plug and tried it and it sparks.
Voltage to coil is 9-10v same as the other ones.

Am I missing something?
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post #2 of 19 Old 07-16-2018, 12:49 PM
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Yes, you left out which model bike your referring to, and I ain't looking through 2 service manuals because you're keeping it a secret.

For Tech Questions Bike Model letters and Country are more useful than saying the year, for UK owners anyway, as registration year is not always the year of manufacturer model.
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post #3 of 19 Old 07-16-2018, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, you left out which model bike your referring to, and I ain't looking through 2 service manuals because you're keeping it a secret.

Haha thought it was common knowledge what I was riding today. After all it was a monday. :)

ZX12R-2000
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post #4 of 19 Old 07-16-2018, 01:39 PM
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Now to my problem. I get a fault code 51 that means the left side coil. Measured between ecu and coil connector continuity and ok. Switched coils between 1 and 2 still 51 in error code. Removed the spark plug and tried it and it sparks.
Voltage to the coil is 9-10v same as the other ones.
The voltage at the stick coils should be battery voltage. Check the resistance through the ignition switch and kill switch any resistance here can drop voltage over the coils. Check the Ignition fuse in the fuse box that the contacts are good. Also probably worth checking the 30 amp green fuse in the top of the starter solenoid.
You need to remove the battery or ECU, to clear the fault codes. If the fault keeps coming back you may have an ECU with a damaged number 1 coil earthing circuit.

For Tech Questions Bike Model letters and Country are more useful than saying the year, for UK owners anyway, as registration year is not always the year of manufacturer model.
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post #5 of 19 Old 07-16-2018, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks ninjayorkie. Will check it out tomorrow.

A pic of todays firehazard.

[IMG][/IMG]
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post #6 of 19 Old 07-17-2018, 12:03 PM
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Shit that looks a little frightening, but your first call should have been to the insurance company to increase the value then the fire brigade Craig

if anything goes wrong check the battery
no longer a rider but still an enthusiast
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post #7 of 19 Old 07-17-2018, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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Shit that looks a little frightening, but your first call should have been to the insurance company to increase the value then the fire brigade Craig

You are right I really must work on this effin character flaw.
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post #8 of 19 Old 07-18-2018, 12:35 AM
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see its that dam conscious leading you astray hope you get her sorted and burning the road again soon not just batteries Craig

if anything goes wrong check the battery
no longer a rider but still an enthusiast
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post #9 of 19 Old 07-18-2018, 03:25 AM Thread Starter
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see its that dam conscious leading you astray hope you get her sorted and burning the road again soon not just batteries Craig
Cheers dastardly!

Cleaned up connections and now there is a healthy 12v at the coil connectors. Number one stick coil melted so a new one is on itīs way.
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post #10 of 19 Old 07-18-2018, 07:40 AM
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Number one stick coil melted so a new one is on itīs way.
This normally means there is a short to earth on that line to the ECU, or the ECU is fucked.

For Tech Questions Bike Model letters and Country are more useful than saying the year, for UK owners anyway, as registration year is not always the year of manufacturer model.
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post #11 of 19 Old 07-18-2018, 09:23 AM Thread Starter
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This normally means there is a short to earth on that line to the ECU, or the ECU is fucked.
The wire from connector to ecu checks out ok. Guess that means ecu buying time. Thanks for the tip ninjayorkie.
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post #12 of 19 Old 07-18-2018, 01:08 PM
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I would imagine ECU's aren't cheap so I would confirm that wire at the ECU is permanently earthed, and double check that wire.

For Tech Questions Bike Model letters and Country are more useful than saying the year, for UK owners anyway, as registration year is not always the year of manufacturer model.
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post #13 of 19 Old 07-19-2018, 01:50 AM Thread Starter
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I would imagine ECU's aren't cheap so I would confirm that wire at the ECU is permanently earthed, and double check that wire.

Ecu is on itīs way. I tried wiggling the cable around while measuring but seems ok to me no short to earth that I can find. Not sure how to test it with my multimeter to see if it gives continous earth to coil while running.

If I put in a new coil stick and the ecu is effed will it melt instantly or whats the norm?
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post #14 of 19 Old 07-19-2018, 04:02 AM
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With the stick coil being very low resistance, if it gets an earth for more than a split second it will start drawing huge amounts or current/amps, the coil will then heat up like any coil heater, and will melt the stick coil head/top.
How long this takes to happen I have no idea. I can't think of an easy way to test the earth, but like I said I would have a good look along the loom, as it may only short while you're sat on and riding the bike.


For Tech Questions Bike Model letters and Country are more useful than saying the year, for UK owners anyway, as registration year is not always the year of manufacturer model.
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post #15 of 19 Old 07-19-2018, 04:15 AM Thread Starter
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With the stick coil being very low resistance, if it gets an earth for more than a split second it will start drawing huge amounts or current/amps, the coil will then heat up like any coil heater, and will melt the stick coil head/top.
How long this takes to happen I have no idea. I can't think of an easy way to test the earth, but like I said I would have a good look along the loom, as it may only short while you're sat on and riding the bike.

I have earth at all coil connections when ignition is turned on. If thats not ok then the ecu is def shot.
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