Step by step - OEM ignition rotor to a 4* advance rotor change... - Kawasaki Forum :: KawasakiWorld.com
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post #1 of 20 Old 01-15-2019, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
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Post Step by step - OEM ignition rotor to a 4* advance rotor change...

Ok... This is not in any way a difficult job and it is in my opinion a mod worth doing!

There are two ways of doing this mod. 1. Buy a 4* advanced rotor and bolt it on... Or... 2. F&%k up a nice ignition pick-up by modifying the pickup bolt holes following this The Kawasaki ZX-12R - Advancing The Ignition Timing -The choice is yours! I preferred to just buy a new rotor off Ebay... but either way of doing this mod works!

Here goes...

Pic. 1. The rotor kit I bought off Ebay...
Pic. 2. This is the ignition pick-up cover you need to unbolt. Before you attack the bolts with your 8mm socket, remove the "padding" or what ever it is called, as you can see in...
Pic. 3 The "pad" on my bike was completely rotted.. -Hope one can still get new ones?
Pic. 4 WD40 is your BEST friend when planing on unbolting stuff, specially bolts that probably never been unbolted since the guy/girl at the Kawasaki factory tightened them up.. I just "crack" open the bolt, then blast it with WD40, then turn the bolt out a couple of turns and spray more WD40 on the threads. There is thread lock on the bolts, so it will feel tight. DO NOT force bolts out that have never been opened up, let the bolt/threads soak in WD40 or something similar!
Pic. 5. Once you taken the bolts out with out messing up the threads push a rag or shop paper into the engine case, take a thread tap and clean the threads. Do NOT thread the tap all the way in where the upper bolt goes. This hole is "open" into the case, if you go all the way in with the tap, you will push all the crap from the threads into the engine case and you DO NOT want to do that!

...Continues in the next post because you can only upload 5 pics/post....
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Last edited by Mefirst; 01-24-2019 at 12:02 PM.
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post #2 of 20 Old 01-15-2019, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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Pic. 6. Take your 17mm socket and unbolt the bolt holding the rotor. Its not bolted on that tight.
Pic. 7. There is your OEM rotor.
Pic. 8. Just pull it out.
Pic. 9 The new rotor comes with a "ring", the "ring" goes in first, then the new rotor!
Pic. 10 See the difference on the teeth on the rotors, the OEM rotor is under the new rotor....

.... Contiues in the next post.....
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post #3 of 20 Old 01-15-2019, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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Pic. 11 Place the "ring" on to the axel..
Pic. 12 Then the rotor and bolt. The rotor will only go on a certain way on the axel. This is fool proof, you cant mess this up even if you try your hardest, well placing the rotor the wrong way is about the only way you can F&%K up.. BUT to be on the safe side - The side on the rotor that has print on it is the side that comes outwards!
Pic. 13 Tighten the bolt. It does not have to be tightened for King and Country. The rotor/bolt spins clockwise so it will not come off...

...Continues in the next post...
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Last edited by Mefirst; 01-15-2019 at 02:43 PM.
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post #4 of 20 Old 01-15-2019, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
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Pic. 14 Now you need to do some measuring, but first you need to turn the rotor so one of the rotor teeth is pointing directly against the pick-up. Use the 17mm socket to turn the bolt clockwise.
Pic. 15 The gap between the rotor should be between .015-.020. I measured a gap about .019, I wanted it to be smaller (I run EFI on my dragrace car and use as little gap between the crank trigger wheel and pick-up possible without risking the trigger wheel teeth coming into contact with the pick-up - The smaller the gap, better the signal) To get the .017 I thought was ok I loosened one of the pick-up bolts (8mm), put the feeler gauge between the rotor and pick-up, then pushed the pick-up softly against the feeler gauge and rotor and tightened the bolt at the same time - Perfect!
Pic. 16 Thats it! Job almost done! Before you go on bolting the cover back on - Hold on! Take a brush and clean the bolt threads to get rid of the old thread lock. This so you wont mess up any threads! On the under side of the cover there is an rubber "O-ring". I did not have a new one, but I will buy one later on and change it so there wont be any oil leaks. I dipped my finger in oil and smeared it on the o-ring, after that put the cover and screwed the bolts in...
Pic. 17 Then take out your trusted torque wrench and tighten the cover bolts to 15 N-m / 11 Ft-p...

Now comes the fun part.... Starting and testing your bike. I noticed that the bike started up so much faster/easier than before. I could not take it outside for a real test ride because of snow and ice. So I had to do my test ride inside the garage. I have a "little" hole in the wall separate garage inside a large parking garage under a shopping mall. Ive even done some hard pulls with my dragracing car in there during winter months, only downside to this is my dragracecar is loud so it wrecks havoc with the car alarms of the cars parked down there

..any way. The bike pulls so much better than it did before. I rode the bike before I did the mod so the different feeling after the mod was really apparent. Next thing I did was resetting the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). I did it the "mechanical way" according to this The Kawasaki ZX-12R - Setting The Throttle Position Sensor 'TPS' I did not want to mess about with a volt meter, doing it that way just seems to me to make things more complicated than they have to be... I have used and always use the "KISS" principle, doing things with that in mind has never let me down...

..So after that it was time for a new test ride... -Damn this bitch pulls hard now I wish I could have taken her out on a freeway bombing ride... I am really happy with the result and it didnt take me more than about an hours worth of work...

Hope someone will find this thread interesting and helpful...

/Tom
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Last edited by Mefirst; 01-24-2019 at 12:08 PM.
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post #5 of 20 Old 01-15-2019, 02:44 PM
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Are you sure it is 4° advanced? Compared it with the oem rotor? Not just a cheap counterfeit?

cmg
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post #6 of 20 Old 01-15-2019, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by color me gone View Post
Are you sure it is 4° advanced? Compared it with the oem rotor? Not just a cheap counterfeit?

cmg
Am I 100% shore -No! Did it blow up my engine -No... Did it cause detonation/pinging in the engine -No...

If you read the other way of doing this mod, found in the link I posted in my first post. In that "How to do" they/he advance the pick-up up to 6*, now thats pushing the limit of what it safe with fuel one can get from a normal fuel filling station... Then again if one would go deep into mods and engine timing it will depend on several other factors about the rest of the engine set-up and what octane fuel one runs in the engine... I will not go into detail with this subject because it would take me hours to write it down, because there are so many things that come into play...

The guy that makes the rotors is from the UK. He has sold many of these advance rotors for different bike brands on Ebay. He is also found on Facebook, so I do not think he sells crap. The rotor material is not some cheap found in the garbage metal and the machining is as good/even better than the OEM rotor.. If he would sell crap, there would be miles of threads written about it in different bike forums! So it is legit and a safe mod to use..

But -Yes, one needs to/should know a thing or two and look/"Google" for info before doing stuff like this..... But this is no more "dangerous" than changing exhaust and adding a PC - One can F#"K up that job in the worst kind of way to if one do not know what one is doing, specially adding/changing "tunes" in the PC....

/Tom

Last edited by Mefirst; 01-15-2019 at 03:27 PM.
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post #7 of 20 Old 01-15-2019, 03:24 PM
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I did not comment on the quality of the rotor. You put together a nice thread and I was asking if you verified that the rotor was advanced 4°. Unless you verify, you don’t know if it’s real.
Doesn’t take much to add or subtract 4°
I believe each line is 5°

cmg
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Last edited by color me gone; 01-15-2019 at 03:37 PM.
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post #8 of 20 Old 01-15-2019, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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No offence taken, I like it when threads/posts become a discussion that go deeper into things...

To answer your question did I measure the rotor so it is actually 4 degrees of advance? The answer is -No. But just looking at the picture of the two rotors on top of each other the difference is not that much. If lets say the stock rotors tooth center is X or 0 degrees and you look at the other rotors tooth, just "eyeing" it the difference is not more than a couple of degrees. If I had a small enough, or modded degree wheel it would be easy to measure.. and also, reading the mod from the link I posted in the first post I made, the one where you move the pick-up counter clockwise, that way is no more scientifically done than replacing the rotor...

Also I could give this question back at you - How do you know the guy at Muzzys didnt mess up the degrees on that rotor???? Just because it has "Muzzys made in the USA" machined on it doesnt make it perfect... I could write miles on messed up high priced "Made in the USA" parts I had to redo correct over the years I been into car racing.... But lets not make this into an argument...

Lets take this discussion further... If you use a Power Commander and in the computer tuning program you retard/advance the ignition X amount of degrees - How do you know it will be 100% correct??? You can not in any easy way put a timing light and check the timing on a bike as you can with a car ignition.... You just trust it to be correct....

/Tom

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post #9 of 20 Old 01-15-2019, 03:49 PM
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Agreed
Wasn’t meaning to dig out the timing light. lol. Just match up the oem rotor.
Lining up 1-4 on the case halfs and noting where a rotor tooth is with the oem, then comparing the new one can give a good idea.

cmg
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post #10 of 20 Old 01-15-2019, 03:54 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by color me gone View Post
Agreed
Wasn’t meaning to dig out the timing light. lol. Just match up the oem rotor.
Lining up 1-4 on the case halfs and noting where a rotor tooth is with the oem, then comparing the new one can give a good idea.

cmg
I think will do that just because you sparked my interest. May be an easier would be to take a degree disc one used in school and do a measurement of the teeth?

/Tom
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post #11 of 20 Old 01-15-2019, 04:00 PM
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Your way would be accurate.
I was looking for a quick reference.
Oem first. Note a tooth, don’t move the crank, slip on the new one and eyeball.
They don’t make the one I posted a pic of and I am not sure what years KZScott can flash, I think 00-01. Woolich does 04-05.
So having a good option like you are exploring is good for all of us.

cmg
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post #12 of 20 Old 01-15-2019, 07:45 PM
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just as an fyi, a tighter gap does produce a stronger signal, but increased rpm does too. if you do both, it may cause too strong of a signal on the pickup and create problems.

yes i can flash 00 and 01 currently, if i had enough demand i would do 02 and 03 also

the problem with manual advancers is they are just a set amount. most setups benefit more from a progressive increase as rpm goes up.

01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 on dot tires, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, 55 shot... turbo 8.32 @ 173
00 ZX-12R 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Worlds Fastest NA Kawasaki
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Worlds fastest ZX-12R CMG Racing RCC Turbos
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post #13 of 20 Old 01-16-2019, 12:27 AM Thread Starter
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just as an fyi, a tighter gap does produce a stronger signal, but increased rpm does too. if you do both, it may cause too strong of a signal on the pickup and create problems.

the problem with manual advancers is they are just a set amount. most setups benefit more from a progressive increase as rpm goes up.
Cheers KZScott

-This is so true. A progressive timing curve will have more benefits over a set one.

/Tom
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post #14 of 20 Old 01-16-2019, 02:38 AM
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Count the teeth on crank then divide it in to 360 and that's your degrees per teeth
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post #15 of 20 Old 01-16-2019, 08:07 AM
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A lot of zx12 mods were done way before mainstream aftermarket parts were available !
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