I've got a pc3, full Tsukigi exhaust, and stock air filters, and I'm 168hp at the wheel with -1 tooth in the front and +2 teeth in the rear.

Each dyno is a little different, and depending on altitude/temperature, it can be wildly different.

I think you're doing just fine at 172hp. You can play with a different map for the pc3, but I'd just leave it alone till you're used to riding it.

 

you are 100% write mate:thumbup:

 

I clearly do need to get used to this bike, I wont disagree in any way.. I was just asking for the reasoning if there was anything left in the bike that was untapped power from say maybe a bad tune.. I dont know where my bike should of been on average for the mods and mapping ..

 

there's always more power to be had. the price for that power is the hard thing to swallow.:thumbdown:

 

So the hp/tq sounds right for the supporting mods and pc3 mapping

 

Yeah, it sounds in the ball park. You should check to see if the front and rear sprocket have be swapped out for a different tooth count. That will affect your hp at the wheel as well.

If you are just going off of the sheet that the guy gave you when you bought it, it wouldn't hurt to have it dyno'd again to see where you're currently at. Most shops are under $40 for a quick dyno run without tuning.

My advice: Hook up the power commander to a laptop, and grab the map off of it to see what it looks like and compare it to some of the maps that other guys are using. If you search for "maps" you'll find plenty.

Save your map to your laptop and then load a different map with a similar description to the setup you're running. If you like that map better than yours, run it.

Still, the best way to proceed from here would be to run it like it is, and search for some of the common mods that people do (crank case breather, etc.) and go through your bike and see what's already been done to it so that you know what direction you can go with it. Just my opinion.

Have fun with it, and be careful. It's a damn monster between your legs, and WILL get you in trouble if you don't respect it like it's an atomic bomb.

 

I understand that completely.. Having the zx11 with nitrous and full motor build I had a urge to hit the nitrous on a full pass and almost lost it shifting from third to forth with full throttle and nitrous.. Stupid move I know thankfully I kept it straight as it ripped the chain off the bike and locked up the bike wheel..

 

If you're interested in more torque, you can advance the cams. More torque and power, big bore kit. More fear of God, TURBO it!

Sounds like your 11 was pretty well set up.

If you're looking for top speed silliness, search for LSR (land speed record). Those guys have balls a big as Cadillacs. :loco:

 

Cadillacs ain't that big !

:rotflmao:

 

If any power adder gets put to my 12 it will be a turbo, got a couple sitting on the bench already.. So either way I've been looking into possibilities.

For the lsr stuff I don't know any where in connecticut to do it so drag racing will be what I do with a commute every once and a while.. I've got my manual and I'm searching everything I can about turbos on 12's between here, bikeland, psychobike and a few others.. I got a buddy that had a turbo zx10 , and a old school guy that does all turbo gpz's and another that's got a couple busa's

 

good point. I get to about 180, and I need to shut it down. I've got balls, but not elephantitis of the balls

elephantitis - Google Search

 

...I was like that when i first got my zx12r. Didnt go past 280kmh too often.But once i became familiar with the acceleration, 300km/h has been seen often....way too often., especially when there is a gsxr1000 that is beside you that has something to prove. Or maybe its me that has something to prove.-LOL

 

Rough.... You'd need a side car for your 12 to hold your nuts if you had elephantitis

 

My father-in-law is a Sheriff's Deputy, and he pulled me over after I was clocked at 184mph. He was a little pissed. Now I have to fix his crappy old truck in lieu of going to jail.

It's been our arrangement for almost a year now, so I'm bound to only get on it at a track now, and there's not enough room to get up past that now.:thumbdown:

 

...tell him the next time he catches you going 184mph, his daughter will be on back. What do you think his reaction would be?:rotflmao::rotflmao:

 

If my father in law was the sheriffs deputy I'd so be borrowing his radar for high speed passes

 

That was the first thing I though of also!! :rotflmao:

 

I have a question! "Which" Hindle do you have?? There "IS" a 6 to 8 HP difference between them!

 

In all honesty I couldn't truly tell you as it cane on the bike and I'm still finding stuff on it since I bought it that the previous owner didnt tell me..nothing bad but, just don't know what parts were used

 

My hindle is carbon fiber if that matters

 

Since you had me wondering I called the guy.. It is the generation 3 full hindle exhaust with carbon canister

 

there is a GEN 2 or GEN 3 in the hindle

 

When I called the guy he said it was the newest one out for the beginning of the riding season of this year.. So I'm assuming it's a gen 3.. He also added if I want the stick stuff I can go pick it up

 

Very Easy way to tell if you have the STD or Step Tube. Go to your bike and get down and "Look" at the Header pipe! You "Should" be able to see what I am looking for through the Side Vent.

After the Header curves down from the Head tell me if there is welding around the Pipe. One set has NO welding and the Other set all 4 pipes are welded with the 2 in the middle welded in the same area and the 2 on the Outside are welded in the same area.

Get back to me ASAP

 

ill check when i go home tonight..

 

If you noticed, I did not tell you which is which, but I will say one thing that "Most"! People that get the Step Tube (Because of the extra power & Heat it produces) usually do not get the CF Muffler!

 

im learning something new everyday.. ill take pics when i get home

 

Notice all of the welding? Can you see that the diameter about 1 inch above the welds is Smaller than after the welds? That is because there is a "Step Up" in the diameter of the pipe, Hence Step Tube

Since this is a Prototype on my ZRX, a ZX12R will look a little differently and not spread out around BOTH Sides of the Sump.

 

I gues mine is stepped tube.. This picture was taken from right side thru fairings

 

i have the same header on mine but it has a stainless can and my god your right about the heat it builds up, amazing that it hasn't melted yet.

 

So am I better off with the carbon since the stepped tubes get so hot or am I gonna fuck some shit up..

Would it be better if I shorten the can like I'm planning to desolate some heat

 

Yes, You have the Step tube Hindle and I have some SERIOUS Maps for a 2000 & 2001 ZX12R.

Second, the Hindle Muffler is a full Float Design and it is difficult to Match the Baffle and Can. Second, Since the problem is the "Heat" and it is at the "Beginning" of the Muffler how can making it Shorter reduce the heat before it enters the Muffler?

Last, your Stainless or Ti Muffler may get hot but that is not a problem. That is also why they use 2.25 core mufflers are used on the Step tube exhaust.

 

Soooooooooo.. serious maps for a 2000???