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2000 w/pc3, hindle full exhaust, and k&n 172hp/91 torque

6.7K views 53 replies 10 participants last post by  Vincent Hill  
50 foot serial... havent seen one of those in a while..

im a pawnbroker so i get all diffrent kinds of things walking thru the door

Let me know when you get your map installed and take a ride! I think the #1 thing you will be surprised about is the Bottom end performance. One person said that he needed to mile his down because he was not used to the front wheel skipping along the ground at 2.5 to 3K rpms :lol:
 
damn .... thats amazing

side note i got a old laptop from work that has a serial port on it.. i named the laptop my tuning laptop and shoved it in my car
That is what I still use for my tuning. I got a cable that has an adapter end and is 50 feet long for when it is either too hot or Cold outside and then use the computer inside the house! :lol:
 
Are the Bear stacks better than the Muzzys?
Muzzy got "His" first set of Velocity Stacks for a ZX12R from Rickey Gadson in 2002! He then tested them on the Dyno and said that they testing did not show any real gain. Gadson used them at the Indy Pro-Star Nationals and went .05 quicker than he had ever gone before. At the Next Race "Atco" in New Jersey, Muzzy had a set of Velocity Stacks he had made in his bikes.

The Question that beggs to be asked, Which is Better? The Original design that was tested for 2 years in South Africa and then here in the USA where the Dyno showed a 3 to 5 HP gain using the Short Stacks which were the only ones Bear Made at the time, Or the Muzzy Stacks that are different and have a different Venturi design and that Muzzy has "Never" Claimed any performance advantage and only calls them a "Tuning Aide"?

I sold the 1st 10 sets of Bear Engineering Velocity in March 2002 to 9 other people and myself on the Old Labusas Board. Dan Millholland "OldKawboy" went to Maxton and made many runs between 194 and 197 MPH. He then put in a set of Bear Engineering Velocity Stacks and made runs between 199 and 201 MPH. Now, 90+% of every ZX12R that has done Land Speed Racing have Bear Engineering Velocity Stacks.

Because of his relationship with Eazy Rider (Who started this Forum) Bear has always given everyone here and HERE ONLY 10% off. List Price for the short was $249.95 and they were reduced to $225.00. All Bear Stacks wwere Gold until I asked about getting them in Purple since the Belly of the early ZX12R were all Purple. I also asked him about LONGER Stacks for more midrange and torque so he designed the Long one which fill in the torque dip between 4 and 6K RPM. Again with testing of OldKawboy we found that Mixing them for Drag Racing gave him up to a 0.10 quicker ET so we then sold Short, Long and Mixed. Try buying a set of Mixed from Muzzy!

Now that the ZX12R is out of Production he turned to the ZX10 and the ZX14. Dan son Chad set a Land speed record on a ZX10 sponsored by Cycle World at Maxton using a set of Bear Engineering Velocity Stacks made just for that bike. He made 5 more sets which I have all but one of the sets.

Here are some of the articles that some were even posted here!

http://kawasakiworld.com/zx-12r/5821-rg-drag-racing-south-africa-bear-racing-zx14r-pi.html

Here is also some of the work thet Pierre does in South Africa!

HEWLETT PACKARD AND WESBANK RACEWAY GO ONLINE WITH DEVELOPMENT
 
Yea I changed the link to a multiple post.. But there are some things getting done to this bike within the next year..

Other then your map I'm stretching/lowering, h.I.d, and some basic cosmetic stuff and just gonna get used to the bike.. Then mid season start adding the other stuff into the mix..

So alot of homework will be done
:thumbup::thumbup::clap:
 
it did open on my power commander program... and thank you once again..

and the crank case vacuum mod and the other similar basic mods for performance would be what me and a couple of the newer 12 riders would be looking for...

to the search i go.....

found this for the fellow newbies

http://kawasakiworld.com/zx-12r/2327-negative-crankcase-mod-questions.html

You are doing your home work! I gained about 2 HP from this but if you are trying to see what the A/F you have to block it off because it effects the readings. Also if your Oil pressure is Low to begin with you cannot use this Mod because it will lower it a little more and maybe make the Oil Light come on. Without this Mod and No short Stacks, with my mapping you should be able to get 178 HP and about 96 to 97 in Torque!
 
There should be a FAQ thread stickies to the top of the forum explaining modifications including the stacks..
There used to be and may still be there. The site has had it problems in the past when it went down and lo0st a bunch of things. My Map was there and the Crank Case Vacuum Mod along with a few other things everyone was doing. I have sent you the map and if your DJ will not allow it to be saved and opened, let me know and I will print it out and scan it in ans send it to you. OK?
 
That's what I'm talking about.. With these stacks is the bike still streetable.. I understood your explanation on how the stacks work in the other thread

Actually More! Imagine if your torque Dip between 4 to 6 K was smoother out? Would that make your bike more or less rideable. WIth the SHort Stacks, the power Dip in Low end is more but a LOT less than the people that have a Muzzy Exhaust. :lol:

If you PM me your e-mail address I will send you the map I used before I went racing.
 
With the shortening question I was thinking along the lines less length would also be less heat and it being shorter would be able to desolate the heat quicker since being shorter an carbon
I understood the thinking. It may reduce the amount of heat trapped inside the Muffler, but the problem is that EGT as it leaves the exhaust port is about 1200 degrees and as it tries to cool the step tube increases the amount of space to keep the speed UP (Retaining the heat as much as possible) Which is why this pipe runs Hotter.
 
So am I better off with the carbon since the stepped tubes get so hot or am I gonna fuck some shit up..

Would it be better if I shorten the can like I'm planning to desolate some heat
Yes, You have the Step tube Hindle and I have some SERIOUS Maps for a 2000 & 2001 ZX12R.

Second, the Hindle Muffler is a full Float Design and it is difficult to Match the Baffle and Can. Second, Since the problem is the "Heat" and it is at the "Beginning" of the Muffler how can making it Shorter reduce the heat before it enters the Muffler?

Last, your Stainless or Ti Muffler may get hot but that is not a problem. That is also why they use 2.25 core mufflers are used on the Step tube exhaust.
 
Image


Notice all of the welding? Can you see that the diameter about 1 inch above the welds is Smaller than after the welds? That is because there is a "Step Up" in the diameter of the pipe, Hence Step Tube

Since this is a Prototype on my ZRX, a ZX12R will look a little differently and not spread out around BOTH Sides of the Sump.
 
When I called the guy he said it was the newest one out for the beginning of the riding season of this year.. So I'm assuming it's a gen 3.. He also added if I want the stick stuff I can go pick it up
Very Easy way to tell if you have the STD or Step Tube. Go to your bike and get down and "Look" at the Header pipe! You "Should" be able to see what I am looking for through the Side Vent.

After the Header curves down from the Head tell me if there is welding around the Pipe. One set has NO welding and the Other set all 4 pipes are welded with the 2 in the middle welded in the same area and the 2 on the Outside are welded in the same area.

Get back to me ASAP