Check the basics first. Check the fluid make sure it is at the right level, check the line make sure it isn't crimped or twisted anywhere, check the caliper makes sure it moves freely.

Take the caliper off, stick something in between the pistons and push on the brake lever by hand. Does the caliper squeeze onto the object? I suspect the caliper isn't moving freely as it should.

Lou

 

Thanks Lou. I'm wondering if the guy who put the pads in could have taken the caliper off and then when he put it back on could have twisted the line. I'm bringing it home tomorrow. Can't wait to see what it is. I'll check all the things you mentioned. Thanks again.
Mike

 

The bike is a Concours 14 ABS. Could the ABS need to reset after the pads installed? Never heard of it but again this is my first Concours. Thanks

 

I've never heard of having to reset the ABS system when changing the pads. I've done several break pads on Honda's with ABS and never did. If I was home I could look in the manual but maybe someone else can confirm.

Have you checked the basics yet?

Lou

 

Lou, I see no twists or crimps in the lines. Plenty of fluid. It's strange, you can put hard pressure on the pedal and it will eventually go down. Also it will pop back up as soon as the pressure is relieved. I'll take the caliper off tonight and check closer. Just wanted to make sure the ABS was not the cause.
Thanks
Mike

 

Took line off caliper, pedal still hard to push down so I know the caliper's ok. Took lines off the master cylinder, separated pedal from piston, worked the piston and it freed up. I saw nothing wrong. Going to put it back together tomorrow, fill it up with fluid and see what happens. Hate it when things look good but still don' t work.

 

If it still is hard pushing down on the lever while not connected to the caliper than there must be something obstructing the brake line otherwise the lever would simply spitout fluid all over. The ABS models have brake hubs(blocks) where the lines run through. Could be the line or block is plugged maybe. Do you have a manual to trace the route of the line and how to test it all?

Lou

 

No Lou, I do not. Thought I would log onto Bike Bandit and try to trace the lines. Funny thing is, the front brakes work perfectly. I was thinking the front and back work in conjunction with each other. I should be able to see a crimp in the lines. Just hate to have to take all the plastic off to see it. Thanks for your advice !

 

Lou, I took your advice and logged onto the COG website. I found an entry where they said their conc was doing the same thing mine was. Stand on the rear brake pedal and would not move. They're saying ABS Hydraulic Control Unit. Now all I gotta do is find out where it is and find one on eBay. New one is $1K. Thanks for your help. Mike

 

Lou, I think I figured it out. Remember the rear caliper has two bleeder screws. I bled the outside chamber and finally got the air out, then started on the inside chamber. It had air as well. I don't believe the inside had ever been bled. This means air was causing the inside pad not to move. The pedal would move so far and I would have to force it on down which was pushing air thru the inside chamber and not moving the pad. So at best, I only had the outside pad touching the rotor. Now both pads are coming in contact with the rotor and stopping the wheel from both sides. Relieved!! Thanks for all your help thru this. Mike

 

That is great news, glad it worked out. Did you get my private message with the links?

Lou

 

Yes I did. Thank you very much. The manual is just what I needed. Appreciate it very much.
Mike