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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I wanted to see if I could get members opinion on what should be the useful life expectancy of a battery on my 2003 ZX12r? It is the mfg spec'd Yausa battery and installed new in June 2010. I recently experienced a situation where it started right up, I rode it for about an hour, parked it, and when I came out to start it up again, it had no juice at all. Everything went dead. I turned the key off, waited about 60 seconds, turned it back on and it came back to life, fired up and the clock and odometer were reset as if there was a complete disconnect of the battery. I rode it 20 minutes back to my garage and it sat for a week before I went to start it again. It fired right up and I rode for 10 minutes to run and errand and when I came out the bike was turning over very slowly and would not bump start when attempted. I put my battery tender on it for about 12 hours and according to the tender it was over 80% charged, and it fired right up. I do keep the battery on a tender all winter. Any thoughts on where to start trouble shooting to figure out if it's the battery, charging system or something else? Thanks
 
Check the conections to the battery, sounds like a loose earth (ground). :thumbup:

Sometimes it is the simplest of things.

A mate of mine had the same symptoms on his BMW Adventurer a few months back, it took the bmw workshop 3 hours to find this was the problem :rotflmao:
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Thanks all for the suggestions. I'll get her up on the bench tonight or tomorrow and see what I'm getting for voltage and I'll make sure to get a full charge on the battery today to see if it holds.
 
While you have the battery tray out check the starter solenoid connections are clean and secure.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
I have a full charge in the battery now (per my battery tender). I'll check it tomorrow morning with a meter to see what it held. This is the second battery. I picked the bike up in June 2010 with 3,100 miles on it and the PO had just installed a new battery (so he said). I've put about 10,000 trouble free miles on since. I did move 12 months ago from southern California where I rode the bike every day to Massachusetts where I only can get on it every other week for a 30-60 minute ride between May to November. The rest of the time it has sat on the trickle charger.
 
It's complex. Look up electrolysis. H² and 0² are the equalizers. Oxy (+) and Hydro (-) is the chemical reaction to electricity found? In other words, it's all around us like air. We even repel/attract is why we are good [lightening] conductors we getting hit all the time, buy a lotto with the odds and all that.

Sulfuric acid is the puppy. The H² and the 0² create that heat that causes the protons and electrons to bounce off each other and all that magical heat develops and then when hot enough, POOF! = H²0 flies out like a nice combo of hydro is the fuel, oxy is the air flamedango it goes up near a flame and all that chemistry that is over my head.

So the acid remains and now thickens. So you get the rest about having that PH of both chemicals being somewatt equal. When that battery is up to 1.27 on the acid scale, or you look at it at volts saying 1.28v is a well charged battery. It is saying, you have twice as many parts of oxygen to hydrogen in weight.

So if you saw both liquids in perfect alignment with the formula, H² would be twice as low as the 0²'s weight = 1.28 specific gravity. 1.300 is ideal well charged. 1.150 is discharged.

So like a manicured lawn, pool, body acids, you are more looking at the chemical numbers rather than the volts. The chemical balance inside the batter is the x-ray. The volts across the leads is like an anal thermometer to the outside. You need to draw blood in other words.
 
It's complex. Look up electrolysis. H² and 0² are the equalizers. Oxy (+) and Hydro (-) is the chemical reaction to electricity found? In other words, it's all around us like air. We even repel/attract is why we are good [lightening] conductors we getting hit all the time, buy a lotto with the odds and all that.

Sulfuric acid is the puppy. The H² and the 0² create that heat that causes the protons and electrons to bounce off each other and all that magical heat develops and then when hot enough, POOF! = H²0 flies out like a nice combo of hydro is the fuel, oxy is the air flamedango it goes up near a flame and all that chemistry that is over my head.

So the acid remains and now thickens. So you get the rest about having that PH of both chemicals being somewatt equal. When that battery is up to 1.27 on the acid scale, or you look at it at volts saying 1.28v is a well charged battery. It is saying, you have twice as many parts of oxygen to hydrogen in weight.

So if you saw both liquids in perfect alignment with the formula, H² would be twice as low as the 0²'s weight = 1.28 specific gravity. 1.300 is ideal well charged. 1.150 is discharged.

So like a manicured lawn, pool, body acids, you are more looking at the chemical numbers rather than the volts. The chemical balance inside the batter is the x-ray. The volts across the leads is like an anal thermometer to the outside. You need to draw blood in other words.
huh? :headscratch: I search the word anal and THIS is what I get.
 
Hubz, your thoughts often encompass visions beyond my perceptions. Let me put the question another way - does the continuous activity accelerate the degradation of the electrolyte or the erosion of the electrodes?
 
- does the continuous activity accelerate the degradation of the electrolyte or the erosion of the electrodes?
Yes. Acid loves to decompose lead.

No. Electrolyte remains like water if it never evaporated meaning. The water vapor is the chemical reaction so that depletes the water thru heat [the gas] meaning, you get it near a spark and all that. So no, the acid does not evaporate. The water solution to make the correct specific gravity does. So you see why you have to add water to the battery to get the specific back to 1.300?
 
Original Yuasa still doing the business in mine. (03 bike registered in 05) .Conditioner put on it for a day or two every couple of weeks when not in use.
It seems like I've got lucky, for a change. :thumbup:
Should I expect it to pack up any day soon? Replace it before it lets me down?
 
I have to reread that book of basics over again, but when you ask a question, you can see where the heat is building? It takes two dissimilar metals, a liquid and now gas.

Here is where I have to remember the other metal and it's not copper I believe? Copper is the best flow, meaning, can take the heat. A metal will absorb the heat. So when that 'electrolysis' happens, the electrons cannot flow? It hangs there beating the metal to death is that battery heats up when charged. It draws a lot of current in, like, sucks it in. So those two battery moves are saying, 'Hey, hello, I'm done!'

Say those faults have exposed themselves. And if you think about how simple it is, visualize:

1. Solid = The metals will react to;
2. Liquid = The chemical reaction which ticks away into 5 years about to kill it is the;
3. Gas = The residual that makes electricity.

That's my breakdown. The book is not explaining it that way. I'm just reading nature and she electrically decomposeshit happens!
 
Yes. Acid loves to decompose lead.

No. Electrolyte remains like water if it never evaporated meaning. The water vapor is the chemical reaction so that depletes the water thru heat [the gas] meaning, you get it near a spark and all that. So no, the acid does not evaporate. The water solution to make the correct specific gravity does. So you see why you have to add water to the battery to get the specific back to 1.300?
Hubz,

These are sealed batteries that don't require service. Sealed meaning there is no way for the water vapor to vent to air and evaporate. What you're describing are the older batteries where you would periodically have to use a hydrometer to check the electrolyte levels and adjust if necessary.
 
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