I wanted to see if I could get members opinion on what should be the useful life expectancy of a battery on my 2003 ZX12r? It is the mfg spec'd Yausa battery and installed new in June 2010. I recently experienced a situation where it started right up, I rode it for about an hour, parked it, and when I came out to start it up again, it had no juice at all. Everything went dead. I turned the key off, waited about 60 seconds, turned it back on and it came back to life, fired up and the clock and odometer were reset as if there was a complete disconnect of the battery. I rode it 20 minutes back to my garage and it sat for a week before I went to start it again. It fired right up and I rode for 10 minutes to run and errand and when I came out the bike was turning over very slowly and would not bump start when attempted. I put my battery tender on it for about 12 hours and according to the tender it was over 80% charged, and it fired right up. I do keep the battery on a tender all winter. Any thoughts on where to start trouble shooting to figure out if it's the battery, charging system or something else? Thanks
Battery life expectation on 03 ZX12r
capecafe
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Simply put, youre battery is seeing surface charges from the charging system on short rides but a surface charge has less real power than a deep charge. With a surface charge, the bike will start but loose some charge in the process. If you go for a ride that is insuffciently long to replace the charge just used to start the bike, you are now working with less charge than you started with. Give the battery a deep charge on a battery tender and see how it goes. If you regularly park the bike for more than two weeks at a time, you should hook the battery up to the tender to maintain a full deep charge.duuude!!! I just wanted to figure out why my bikes brokeThat said, I do appreciate the in depth education on the properties of batteries...you got some smart peeps at this forum
Correct, Rotty.
This battery is different. It's chemical won't evap meaning. They use nickel not lead? Phosphorus for the chemical? Won't electrolysis as fast as sulfuric based.
Look up Edison battery vs. Storage battery.
And to add to; an editing note: with the storage base, you can check the specific gravity and get an accurate reading of the battery. With the Edison types, you can only read the volts across the leads meaning. So to check the jell is forget it.
So even though they last longer, are lighter, have less chemical reaction to that rotting out, you weigh that balance.
This battery is different. It's chemical won't evap meaning. They use nickel not lead? Phosphorus for the chemical? Won't electrolysis as fast as sulfuric based.
Look up Edison battery vs. Storage battery.
And to add to; an editing note: with the storage base, you can check the specific gravity and get an accurate reading of the battery. With the Edison types, you can only read the volts across the leads meaning. So to check the jell is forget it.
So even though they last longer, are lighter, have less chemical reaction to that rotting out, you weigh that balance.
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I did leave it on the battery tender for a full 24 hour period and my charger at least told me it has a full charge. I've just pulled it apart to test the battery, the alternator (per the service manual) and the solenoid connections as recommended by a member. It sure fired right up like it always has when I unplugged it. I sure hope to find the cause. I have a 1200 mile trip planned in 2 weeks and it will drive me nuts if the problem just "goes away" . Thanks again for all the suggestions and education
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I don't take any chances i have a digital voltage meter right where i can see it at all times on my bike so i will know instantly if there are any issues before they become a problem stranding me somewhere
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Ok guys....I am getting 12.6V from the battery. So that matches the service specs. When I test the alternator, I am getting 75 V AC at 4,000 rpm. Per the service manual, I should have 85-120 V at 4,000 rpm for a properly functioning alternator, but then it goes on the say " A much lower reading than that given in the table indicates the alternator is defective". Is 75 V considered "much lower"? The stator coil resistance checks at 0.4 at a slightly warmer temp than the 68F in the service manual.
What do you all think; is my alternator just tired and not keeping up, thus causing the battery drain problem I just experienced?
Or, as Rotty suggested, I've just not spent enough time running the bike to keep the battery charged? I have kept it off the tender since I first went out for a ride in May, and all my rides have been pretty short duration.
Thoughts?
What do you all think; is my alternator just tired and not keeping up, thus causing the battery drain problem I just experienced?
Or, as Rotty suggested, I've just not spent enough time running the bike to keep the battery charged? I have kept it off the tender since I first went out for a ride in May, and all my rides have been pretty short duration.
Thoughts?
I am going to take my volt meter, set it at 20v.
I am going to start the bike and let it idle.
I am going to check the leads to read volts @ idle so red to (+) and black probe to (-) ground or the battery's (-) post.
I should see 14v @ idle and say 14.2v revving up to 2,000rpm.
I don't want to see 13 volts or less.
WATT saYE?
I am going to start the bike and let it idle.
I am going to check the leads to read volts @ idle so red to (+) and black probe to (-) ground or the battery's (-) post.
I should see 14v @ idle and say 14.2v revving up to 2,000rpm.
I don't want to see 13 volts or less.
WATT saYE?
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A little seems to be a lot when it comes to electrical. A 12v battery is considered garbage if it tests at 11.9 volts. It seems to me if you're seeing 75v @ 4000 rpm when the manual states 85v -120v @ 4000 rpm, the alternator is insufficient. According to the manual, if the output is low but the stator resistance is normal, the rotor magnets are probably weak and the rotor must be replaced.
Sounds typical of an AGM battery. They last about two years and that's it, they start doing just what you're experiencing. Possible that the weak battery and all the electronics are dragging the alternator down.
12.6vdc is no where near a full charge, it's closer to 75%. A freshly charged 12v battery should be about 13.2v right off the charger and slowly drop from there but not down to 12.6v.
12.6vdc is no where near a full charge, it's closer to 75%. A freshly charged 12v battery should be about 13.2v right off the charger and slowly drop from there but not down to 12.6v.
This is a field question?
1. I have the typical stator problem = I never change my magnets out, only my wires and that cured it.
2. I had to change magnets and that did it = Charging with the old stator wires.
3. I need to check each yellow wire against the other wire's resistance? Have I done that? I don't want to change magnets if the house never swaps out or hardly needs the rotor to be replaced.
Watt SaYE now?
1. I have the typical stator problem = I never change my magnets out, only my wires and that cured it.
2. I had to change magnets and that did it = Charging with the old stator wires.
3. I need to check each yellow wire against the other wire's resistance? Have I done that? I don't want to change magnets if the house never swaps out or hardly needs the rotor to be replaced.
Watt SaYE now?
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Hey HubZ14....I'm seeing 14.10 Vdc at idle and 13.8 Vdc at 2,000 rpm.
When I shut the bike off and tested the battery it was down to 11.9 Vdc, from the 12.6 Vdc I had when I pulled it off the tender a couple hours ago. I only had it running for about 30 seconds with the alternator disconnected when testing earlier, and about 5 seconds to run the test HubZ14 suggested above.
It seems to me the battery is just not holding a charge. Even with a somewhat poorly functioning alternator, it shouldn't lose that much juice in 35 seconds, should it?
When I shut the bike off and tested the battery it was down to 11.9 Vdc, from the 12.6 Vdc I had when I pulled it off the tender a couple hours ago. I only had it running for about 30 seconds with the alternator disconnected when testing earlier, and about 5 seconds to run the test HubZ14 suggested above.
It seems to me the battery is just not holding a charge. Even with a somewhat poorly functioning alternator, it shouldn't lose that much juice in 35 seconds, should it?
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Valid question to ask yourself. A simple wire resistance test is free and should be performed prior to disassembling the alternator. If the resistance is found to be high in one wire, there is corrosion or a partial break and should be fixed anyway. If the wires test fine, you now have confirmed that you really should replace the rotor.
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No I didn't wait the 30 minutes. I have it back on the tender now and when it indicates a full charge (steady green light-very exact
) I'll pull it off, wait 30 minutes and see what I get.
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i think the test is for the battery to be unloaded its gonna drop a lot if its still connected to the bike !!!
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The procedure in the manualy clearly says to connect the tester to the wires then start the bike--indicating the battery is connected. A faulty battery would be a drain on the system which is why it should be the first thing checked. If it checked fine, then a good battery that is connected should have been taken into consideration with the voltage output numbers provided by KHI.
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Ok here is the deal my bike has no issues i just had the stator replaced by the Kawasaki dealer in May and even before that i had no problems but did have the volt meter on my bike since 2009 just because of the stator oil issue so i could monitor it i just took this video so take it for what it is the bike has not been started for 3 days i just walked in turned on the video turned the key on to show voltage of battery before i started it then started the bike looks to me like you have no real worries capecafe
Note My AGM Battery was new and installed in late March of this year
Note My AGM Battery was new and installed in late March of this year
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Rotty- you are right. I just put my leads on the terminals without "removing the battery" first, as indicated in the service manual. Once I see a full charge on the tender I'll pull the battery and see what I get. Now it's cocktail time!
I really appreciate everyone's time helping me hunt down my problem. Cheers!
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Thanks for the video. I'm probably a little over cautious since this is the first time it's ever caused me any concern. I'll put a quick 120 miles on this weekend and see if I have any issues. Out to Ptown and back should tell me if I'm gonna need to worry any more. I rode this bike from San Diego to Vancouver, BC and back a week after I bought it with only new tires and fluids. Never missed a beat...love this land rocket.Ok here is the deal my bike has no issues i just had the stator replaced by the Kawasaki dealer in May and even before that i had no problems but did have the volt meter on my bike since 2009 just because of the stator oil issue so i could monitor it i just took this video so take it for what it is the bike has not been started for 3 days i just walked in turned on the video turned the key on to show voltage of battery before i started it then started the bike looks to me like you have no real worries capecafe
No good, cape. Lets watch our 3Ti (tie in's)
1. Stator system = Puts out more ac voltage as it spins
2. Volt/Reg = Once it sees the charge below set window, 14.+ volts kick in.
3. Battery = Is just a storage lot. Holds a lot of energy.
So if the rpm rises = The v/reg sends 14+ to keep the battery @ above 13v to both feed/charge the complete system.
So if the battery is down = The v/reg is trying to open more volts to enter, but your stator output reads below the minimum of book bottom.
So to me that says = Stator wires show resistance to flow. Is my guess, being the v/reg does reg. The battery does hold and will start the engine.
1. Stator system = Puts out more ac voltage as it spins
2. Volt/Reg = Once it sees the charge below set window, 14.+ volts kick in.
3. Battery = Is just a storage lot. Holds a lot of energy.
So if the rpm rises = The v/reg sends 14+ to keep the battery @ above 13v to both feed/charge the complete system.
So if the battery is down = The v/reg is trying to open more volts to enter, but your stator output reads below the minimum of book bottom.
So to me that says = Stator wires show resistance to flow. Is my guess, being the v/reg does reg. The battery does hold and will start the engine.
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another tid bit of info i know you said it was a factory battery but if it is a Gel cell
this could cause your hot start issue
Gel electrolyte is highly viscous and during charge and discharge the gel can develop voids (pockets) or cracks when the amperage is increased. These pockets impede acid flow and result in the loss of battery capacity. Also the gelled mixture can liquefy upon charge due to the shearing action of gassing (this property is called "thixotropic"). After termination of charge, it can take an hour for the acid to gel again
you can read in more detail in this thread
http://kawasakiworld.com/zx-12r/50185-battery-types-comparisons-vrla-vs-gel-vs-agm.html
and this link
Battery Type Comparison
this could cause your hot start issue
Gel electrolyte is highly viscous and during charge and discharge the gel can develop voids (pockets) or cracks when the amperage is increased. These pockets impede acid flow and result in the loss of battery capacity. Also the gelled mixture can liquefy upon charge due to the shearing action of gassing (this property is called "thixotropic"). After termination of charge, it can take an hour for the acid to gel again
you can read in more detail in this thread
http://kawasakiworld.com/zx-12r/50185-battery-types-comparisons-vrla-vs-gel-vs-agm.html
and this link
Battery Type Comparison
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