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My personal favorite is Break Free CLP. Saw TONS of threads about people using wd40 for years so I thought Break Free has got to be at least as good as wd40 if not better.

Of course since its thinner than actual chain lube, I reapply often (once a week usually) but never had to change a chain on any of my bikes...
 
Bel-Ray Super Clean Chain Lube will not fling off and repels dirt and sand. ............?

I'm interested how they can make that claim. I mean, REPELS? Must be some space-age shit!
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My personal favorite is Break Free CLP. Saw TONS of threads about people using wd40 for years so I thought Break Free has got to be at least as good as wd40 if not better.

Of course since its thinner than actual chain lube, I reapply often (once a week usually) but never had to change a chain on any of my bikes...
Plus it gives it that nice arms room smell! :thumbup:
I have never thought of trying clp on a chain. I have tried triflow and it works ok but flings off pretty easy.

I figured since the chains come packed in lithium grease that is what I would keep using on them.
 
I clean my chain with kerosene and lube it w/ Maxima chain lube. I've used this stuff for years with great results. My chain and sprockets are the original ones put on 17,500 miles ago by Kawasaki. Both sprockets and chain still look new and the chain has experienced minimal stretching.

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I clean my chain with kerosene and lube it w/ Maxima chain lube. I've used this stuff for years with great results. My chain and sprockets are the original ones put on 17,500 miles ago by Kawasaki. Both sprockets and chain still look new and the chain has experienced minimal stretching.

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+1 on the Maxima

A long time ago I read a chain lube shootout that stated that a chain lubed with WD40 ran hotter than a chain with no lube at all. That being said WD40 is all I use on my dirt bikes and the chains although stretched usually last a long time and run very free. These are oring chains

For street use the Maxima does pretty well and does not fling or look dirty. I clean the chain with a grunge brush (great chain tool) then ride the bike a little to warm the chain and then apply the Maxima. Wipe the excess off the chain and sprocket and let it setup. Sets up like wax. I think that extended running on the street requires more than just WD40.

Anyone know where the name WD40 comes from?
 
+1 on the Maxima

A long time ago I read a chain lube shootout that stated that a chain lubed with WD40 ran hotter than a chain with no lube at all.
Well, scientifically speaking - that makes absolutely no sense.


For street use the Maxima does pretty well and does not fling or look dirty.
Wow, that's exactly the stuff I've tried. hated it. It flings and stuck to my bike and wheels like glue.


I think that extended running on the street requires more than just WD40.
nope, it doesn't. quick spray before a long ride and you're good to go.

Anyone know where the name WD40 comes from?
Yes. Water Displacement, 40th formula.
 
I have convinced myself that I do the best I can for my chain now...

1) Put Bike on racing stand, after a ride.
2) Take a rag spray it with WD-40 then wipe down the chain, until it is clean
3) Take a rag spray it with Dupont white lithium spray, then coat the chain
4) Park the bike
5) Repeat in 500 miles.

The problem I had before was I was spraying the chain itself, this allowed me to put WAY too much on the chain... There is no need for all that with an O-Ring chain. The lubricant on the chain is simply to keep the chain from rusting, which would increase friction causing it to run hotter.
 
LOL. I don't know how your buddies can hear your chain much less their own. :)

With my helmet on and my Akrapovic at anything above idle the chain is the last thing I can hear.

You have to really reset your paradigm on everything you've been taught since childhood (and your first Schwinn Stingray) about chains before you can fully understand why chain lube is unnecessary (and perhaps detrimental) to O-ring chains.

O-ring chains are internally lubricated and the O-rings keep that oil IN.

Your O-ring chain has two enemies, dirt & moisture.

Once I saw the light I realized that PJ-1 and every other chain "lube" I'd been using did one thing - ATTRACTED dirt. Well, two things, 1) Attract Dirt & 2) Make a fucking mess of everything within 10 feet of where it was applied.

But as I stated at the start - not looking for a debate. I'll take the Pepsi Challenge with WD-40 and any chain lube on the market but hey, if you like chain lube/wax and are convinced it is the best way to go I'm not going to (nor do I care to) change your mind. :)
 
How to lube a chain and what to lube it will get every answer under the sun just like what kind of oil to use, what brand filter, 9mm or .45, ford or chevy.

Unless you are really abusing the chain with something that kills the orings or blasting high pressure soap and water into it the chances of it lasting quite a while are good.

It has been years since I have owned a bike long enough or put enough miles on it to kill a chain. My old 89 ZX10 was the last bike I had that I put any serious mileage on.
I bought it was about 4000 miles on the clock and sold it with 70,000. and I only went through 2 chains on that. I rode it every day rain or shine and it went through 6 track days at willow springs.

When I pick up a new set of wheels for the 12 I will replace the chain only because the wheel will require a new sprocket and I believe everything should be replaced as a set for longest life. My current chain would probably go for another 10000 (has 10000 on it now) easily even though it has a few links that seem tight but I don't feel.
 
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