OK...because of age and knackered shoulder...I have decided to fit the German high superbike bars kit manufactured by ABM to my ZX-12R A1. Excuses if my typing is crap...hopefully you will be able to fit the kit using my photos etc ( rather than the absolute crap instructions supplied with the kit !! ) Bits I miss out, I'll try to remember to add them later.
Couldn't find any real link to fitting these higher bars, so hopefully this thread will be of use to others
I want to be rid of this position.......
......and here's the £357 kit to do it !!
I settled to also buy ( included in the total price above ) the ABM handlebars and bar weights...so everything should fit nicely. The kit is really well made....just the socket cap screws should be better quality !
So, remove the bodywork that may get scratched....
Then bleed/empty the brake system.....
Loosen all nuts screws etc ( Krappysacki screws were a right pain in the arse..made of cheese so consider loosening the screws maybe the day before starting the conversion. The big allen key is a 12mm jobbie btw.
Only the two screws holding the throttle housing failed to undo.....a nice sharp chisel persuaded them to unwind ( nice stainless replacements went in )
Now read the instructions ( I used Google to translate them...still crap but better than those supplied ! )
Make a note ( i.e. take a photo ) of the three mounting holes ( I used a 5mm drill ). The ABM bars are very thick and strong alloy, superb quality.
Use brake CLEANER to work off the clutch grip ( and to help put it back on as a lube )
Remove the inner fairing black side plastics to help with pouting the cables and at the same time unplug the ignition switch so the top yoke can be removed.......I've left this with my local shop to weld onto the sheer bolts and undo them ( so will finish this job hopefully tomorrow when I get the ignition barrel back ! )
So this is how she looks with the top yoke off.
Slip the spacer on the headstock ( not sure if this is 100% right just yet until I see if the ignition can still be used in the lock position. Like this the top handlebar clamp is lever with the top off the forks ).
Route your wires and cables accordingly ( replacement longer brake hoses - not fitted yet - and a longer clutch cable are supplied in the kit ) and then mark your new high bars ready for drilling...check, check and double check before drilling. No rush, take your time !
Here's where I am up to today.......
Hopefully, I'll get my ignition barrel back tomorrow and then also fit the longer s/s braided hoses. All OE bits 'n' pieces will be sold to help towards my conversion.
Any amendments I shall update you with; more to follow.........
Couldn't find any real link to fitting these higher bars, so hopefully this thread will be of use to others
I want to be rid of this position.......
......and here's the £357 kit to do it !!
I settled to also buy ( included in the total price above ) the ABM handlebars and bar weights...so everything should fit nicely. The kit is really well made....just the socket cap screws should be better quality !
So, remove the bodywork that may get scratched....
Then bleed/empty the brake system.....
Loosen all nuts screws etc ( Krappysacki screws were a right pain in the arse..made of cheese so consider loosening the screws maybe the day before starting the conversion. The big allen key is a 12mm jobbie btw.
Only the two screws holding the throttle housing failed to undo.....a nice sharp chisel persuaded them to unwind ( nice stainless replacements went in )
Now read the instructions ( I used Google to translate them...still crap but better than those supplied ! )
Make a note ( i.e. take a photo ) of the three mounting holes ( I used a 5mm drill ). The ABM bars are very thick and strong alloy, superb quality.
Use brake CLEANER to work off the clutch grip ( and to help put it back on as a lube )
Remove the inner fairing black side plastics to help with pouting the cables and at the same time unplug the ignition switch so the top yoke can be removed.......I've left this with my local shop to weld onto the sheer bolts and undo them ( so will finish this job hopefully tomorrow when I get the ignition barrel back ! )
So this is how she looks with the top yoke off.
Slip the spacer on the headstock ( not sure if this is 100% right just yet until I see if the ignition can still be used in the lock position. Like this the top handlebar clamp is lever with the top off the forks ).
Route your wires and cables accordingly ( replacement longer brake hoses - not fitted yet - and a longer clutch cable are supplied in the kit ) and then mark your new high bars ready for drilling...check, check and double check before drilling. No rush, take your time !
Here's where I am up to today.......
Hopefully, I'll get my ignition barrel back tomorrow and then also fit the longer s/s braided hoses. All OE bits 'n' pieces will be sold to help towards my conversion.
Any amendments I shall update you with; more to follow.........
