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stator connector and no headligths fix ** NEW PICS **

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#202 ·
Thx I will leave it alone then
 
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#203 ·
I did this mod yesterday when I had the issue, my connector was fried and melted together. I changed out the relay and now everything works but I still feel bad about the wires. They are getting pretty hot to the touch with the bike running above idle. I have a feeling I am going to have to swap the wires from the stator up with a much bigger gauge wire to get the uneasy feeling to go away.
 
#204 ·
Don't forget that the stator produces heat as a side effect of its function. It also operates in hot engine oil. Copper is a great heat conductor and heat will naturally radiate up the wires. The action of the reg/rect also produces heat, hence the cooling fins. This heat also radiates into the wiring.
Increasing the cross section of the 3 phase wiring isn't going to stop them warming up. Although, it may make you more confident and it certainly isn't going to make it any worse.
 
#205 ·
This is my post from one of the other sticky threads on this topic, may help.....

Over past month my stator has been rewound, and new cable put on, today I fitted the new JAPAN made Mosfet Reg/Rec supplied by the bloke I'm getting to do the work, and the renewed stator and road the bike under battery power to his shop so he could do the connector fitting to ensure it's correct.

The Reg/Rec comes with extra connectors and the manufacturer recommends new wiring from the Reg/Rec to the battery, as it is thought this is an area where small defects in the original line will cause lack of sufficient charging to the battery. I had mine fitted with the extra wiring that fits directly from the reg/rec to the battery pos and neg terminals. Still my battery, a SSB brand put on by the previous owner is a bit suspect, so I will replace with a YUASA original battery. The electrician said these batteries are the standard to go by.

I will let all know how it goes. It was costly at a total of $730 Aus including labour, but in the long run I'm hoping it works finally.

Interestingly he said a common problem with stators nowadays is they make the gap between the stator and alternator/wheel too close, and believe it or not the problem of too much heat from the alternator causing the stator to act as a heat sink is exacerbated after riding for a while then stopping, such as at a café etc., then the heat builds up and causes more stator burn out over time!!

Their fix is to put lower output wiring in the stator as it doesn't give off as much heat as a standard stator, thus not causing as much wiring problems along the line.

We will see....

Don.
 
#207 ·
Just to add some more info to this thread, my headlights went last week and stripped and checked evrything today and found that in addition the oem reg/rec plug being fried the headlight fuse in the battery box had literally exploded and welded into the plastic cover that goes over it!
Wired in a 20 amp inline fuse in there and cut off connector at the reg/rec and used bullet connectors all round- Everything working and tested - Great thread!:thumbup:
 
#208 · (Edited)
I have headlight issues. After I tap the starter button I get signal power to the high/low relays but I don´t have main power to the relays. I have tested the relays and they open and close as supposed when feeding 12v to them. They switch as they should with the headlight switch and the high beam indicator light works as normal.

From what I have read here the most likely culprit would be the relay in the junction box?

What do you guys think?


Image


The top right in the connector is empty and looks damaged. Should it be empty?
 
#209 ·
From my limited knowledge it does sound like the headlight relay, they are easily purchased - at least in Australia - from electronics shops. Just need to unsolder buggered one then resolder in the new one. Can't recall the part number but can find out if necessary.

Problem is this is usually an indication of more systemic problems with the whole stator/regulator problem, as the wire that feed the relay comes directly off the cabling from the stator - usually from just before one of the connections to the reg/rec relay - when the stator starts going sour the power delivery to that relay wiring gets too much, from what I understand, then cooks the relay, Happy Days!!

This is my understanding on it anyway.
 
#211 ·
Ugh.....:puzzled:

Went over these stickies enough times have some of these posts memorized. Takeoff the plug, put on new plug :loco: but, it's not the same, the new one has solder on it. Oh, now I get it :headscratch: Take off plug put on new plug, well how hard can that be? My plug does not have oil, the wires are new, no burns no fraying, all ship shape. If it aint broke don't fix it.

However, after reading these stickies enough, damned if you don't, and damned if you don't. I can take hint, but really? Take one plug off, put another one on problem solved? Ok, before you beat me down and leave me for dead here it's not that simple, really! What we do know is that it is heat, and pressure related. I'm talking only about the connector. So I came up with the following that seem to be associated with this dilemma.

  1. Long rides without letting bike cool off
  2. Wheelies
  3. High rpms for extended periods
  4. Riding in hot temps
  5. Drag racing
  6. Oil level

If you ride it like you stole it- don't do it for too long, let the bike have cool off periods, ease up on the red line/ wheelies (sort of like this is a bike that you just can't replace with a new one tomorrow) keep the oil fresh and find the right level for your bike. This is what I'm going to do. I'm at 10.9k miles. Unless for some reason I no longer have the bike, will check back here at 20k with input. This is what's missing. You guys that have replaced the connector plug where are you at 10k, 20k, 30k miles down the road? No more problems, keep having the same issue dripping oil and over heating wires, or do you have even more issues?

I cannot believe that by simply cutting out the plug and replacing it with another solves this problem. Call it denial especially when the plug still looks cherry. But it's done and that was made possible by the collective wisdom of this thread.

Thank you.
 
#212 · (Edited)
olajoe808 said:
If you ride it like you stole it- don't do it for too long, let the bike have cool off periods, ease up on the red line/ wheelies (sort of like this is a bike that you just can't replace with a new one tomorrow) keep the oil fresh and find the right level for your bike. This is what I'm going to do. I'm at 10.9k miles. Unless for some reason I no longer have the bike, will check back here at 20k with input. This is what's missing. You guys that have replaced the connector plug where are you at 10k, 20k, 30k miles down the road? No more problems, keep having the same issue dripping oil and over heating wires, or do you have even more issues?

I cannot believe that by simply cutting out the plug and replacing it with another solves this problem. Call it denial especially when the plug still looks cherry. But it's done and that was made possible by the collective wisdom of this thread.

Thank you.
Click to expand...
Basically you are right, damned either way! Some fellas seem to get away with either nothing for a while, or doing what you did with the connectors, or as I did replaced the stator wiring, reg/rec and wiring between, and to, the battery! On my first 12 I went 55k miles before any problems, my second one had crappy wires after 15k miles!

As far as your list, the time it actually causes problems, as explained to me by a motorcycle auto-electrician who did my repairs, is when the bike is parked after a ride, as while moving the oil is helping to cool the stator etc., when parked this no longer happens so the stator and wiring act as a heat sink and slowly cooks itself! So a long ride doesn't of itself cause the problem, rather the stopping after! BUT the capillary action of the oil wicking up the loom to the stator/reg connectors is made worse by continued riding...damned again!!

Hope your fix is all you need!

Don.
 
#214 ·
So what if my headlights came on for a bit, flickered out and then when I hit the switch on the brights the headlights came back on and they flickered just like they did the first time and now neither headlights nor brights are working? Would this still lead to the same relay having fried? Is there a second relay for the brights or?
 
#215 ·
Midgetsolger said:
So what if my headlights came on for a bit, flickered out and then when I hit the switch on the brights the headlights came back on and they flickered just like they did the first time and now neither headlights nor brights are working? Would this still lead to the same relay having fried? Is there a second relay for the brights or?
Click to expand...
Now that might be beyond my knowing!
I can only think that you may still need to check all stator/reg/battery and lighting wiring. These bikes do crazy things when the electrical gremlins start playing!

Hopefully someone with more wisdom will help out.
 
#216 ·
Hopefully someone will reply to me. But I replaced my stator and rectifier with a new ricks with the heavy duty connectors. Well my headlights was fine for a bit. Now I can’t get them to come on. Bike runs and rides fine with the headlights out. But I’m not getting any power to the headlight plug that plugs into the bulbs. The headlight fuse in the fuse box is getting volts. I’ve also switched out the relays and the fuse box and still nothing. But haven’t replaced the relay in the fuse box. I’ve also switched out the whole left handle bar switch control. Need help


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AnthonyWilkerson
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