[color me gone]

Clean inside that engine. Very nice

cmg

 

[Duck00]

Reminds me of the service I'll have to get to later this year too.
I've usually found the 12 seems to keep fairly well in spec with the valve clearances over many miles/kms.
Will find out in a few months.

 

[Duck00]

Another thought on my next service;

I haven't ridden the bike for a few months now due to surgery, and not likely to till the end of the year at the earliest.
I have the bike on a trickle charger, and have been starting it every couple of weeks, until the last month or so when it refuses to start up. It turns over but does not "catch" and spark up to start. It certainly fills up with fuel as I can see it pumping out the exhaust as it's trying to start, with the occasional pop/bang as it sparks once.

I'm not looking forward to checking out the stator and electrical system again, as this bike, my second A1, that I got in '09 at 17,000kms, has gone through 3 stator rebuild/renewals! It just seems to eat them up! My first A1 had done over 94,000 kms and only had the oil wicking up to the reg/rec connector. Those of you who have been on here long enough will know the posts I've done over the years to the sticky threads on the stator issue etc. Seems like I've just got a special one with this A1! I've learnt a lot about the electrical system on the 12 over the years due to these problems, and promptly forgotten most of it, Ha! (consumption of a few brown frothy sherbets may have helped...)

 

[ninjayorkie]

I have an Optimate 3 which I used to leave plugged in, but I don't think it does the battery any good long term, so went for the optimate 4 which charges, monitors, and occasionally puts a load on the battery to help keep it in a good condition, and I'm happy to leave that one plugged in all the time.

Went for a quick ride over to Squire cafe to check the bike out, at about 85mph the engine feels so smooth it's like having the clutch pulled in and coasting along.
It sounds different too, but I don't know if all that was down to it being a windy day. It will pull away from junctions without any throttle now, and tics over nicely at 1k and will tic over down to 600rpm before stalling out.
Then again it could all be just in my head, I'll have to get out and do more miles on it to be sure.

 

[Duck00]

Ninjayorkie, that's interesting about the Optimate 3 charger.

I know what you mean with the bike running so smoothly after a good service & tuning, even if it is all in the head it's still great! These bikes are still capable of giving the grin factor even after so many years.

 

[weedy64]

After a D. and move I dug thru the crates to find my 12r motor and start re-assembly. What is the tightening torque for a set of Ape head studs? - you would think it would be on their website

 

[color me gone]

I believe 15lbs in the case. And no more than 65lbs
At the head. The ape stud will stretch.
I am using 65lbs on my turbo.

cmg

 

[ZuminaZX]

CS1200K CYLINDER STUD INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

1. Long threaded end must be installed in the case. 2. Note stock stud location before removing. There may be several different stud lengths. 3. After removal of stock studs (removal tool #SP-100 available from APE) thoroughly clean holes with solvent and blow out. 4. Use two 7/16 nuts on the short end thread. Dip long thread in oil and install in the case. Torque to 12-15 ft. lbs. maximum. 5. Using APE head nuts, torque to 70 lbs..

 

[JaysonP1121]

Rebuilt the brake calipers and, front and rear master cylinders, and some coremoto brake lines.

 

[ninjayorkie]

Last Sunday I got 171.3 miles before the last fuel segment started to flash, steady 60/85 mph. A convenient Shell Station appeared 3.5 miles later. only put it 17.1 litres absolutely brimming it. So I reckon I could have gone over 190 miles easy, but without carrying my 2-litre fuel bottle I did not want to get stranded at the side of the dual carriageway. Wish I had been carrying it so I could beat my last record of 182 miles before filling up.

 

[OutsiderZX12R]

Last Sunday I got 171.3 miles before the last fuel segment started to flash, steady 60/85 mph. A convenient Shell Station appeared 3.5 miles later. only put it 17.1 litres absolutely brimming it. So I reckon I could have gone over 190 miles easy, but without carrying my 2-litre fuel bottle I did not want to get stranded at the side of the dual carriageway. Wish I had been carrying it so I could beat my last record of 182 miles before filling up.

That has to be a ZX12R record.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

 

[color me gone]

PFM full float 330mm stainless steel. Nice

cmg

 

[ronaldo19]

cool thread, have a 2007 ZX-12R, engine is 1200 (i guess that was the only engine for that year), washed it and changed to a synethetic and oil filter to go along with it:
www.searchforparts.com/motorcycle-oil-change/kawasaki-2007-zx-12r-ninja-1200

checked the brakes, always check the brakes!

 

[ninjayorkie]

Got Voltmeter for the bike and plugged it into a side/running light plug I had unused hanging under the headlights, patched it in. It works great when the sidelight switch is on.
Noticed the other week that occasionally it would reset and start up again, so figured that the plug or battery terminals were poor or loose.
I was just about to start stripping it down when I suddenly remembered that I wired it through the lefthand switching unit from a z750s which deselects the running lights when the indicators are used, its no wonder it's switching off and then back on again . I'll have to wire it in before the lefthand switching unit.

 

[color me gone]

12r turbo up for some maintenance and fiddling.
valve lash is spot on. No change. First time I have checked the lash with the rad out. Much easier. Plugs look really good.
I’m going to be adding a blow off valve to the charge pipe, so with the rad out will have some good access to the tb vacuum lines. Also lowered the bike another 30mm. To do this I had to move the clip-ons to the top of the upper triple. With them below, the forks would not slide up anymore.
lowered the rear also. Installed a heavier shock spring too. From 600lbs to 650.

cmg

 

[MickTLR]

Finally got to ride the '03 I bought last year! Bought it at the end of June with a couple of little jobs to do, beginning of July myself and my triumph tiger get totalled, long recovery for my broken leg.
New front tyre (one of the jobs) and an MOT (roadworthiness test in the UK) last Saturday and I'm back on the road 🙂

 

[SteveW]

A couple of mini projects here!
Has been a little bit of chatter lately about where to buy some factory style connectors.
I had a couple of things in mind so I looked on Aliexpress and found what I wanted.

I've got a late B model with the 32bit ECU, and has the 4 pin KDS plug.
2 thing's I've used the KDS plug is for a Healtech GI-Pro (gear indicator) and more recently a Woolich Racing Interface/Log Box log box unit.

Well with only 1 KDS plug on the main harness plug available, you cant have both plugged in at the same time.
So I thought I'd make a Double adapter:

So, now they're both able to be plugged in at the same time. Just below the dash I've mounted my GI-Pro. Really to be honest I never used it much in the past, but it came as a package when I ordered my Speedo Healer - something I do actually need and use.

I've since found out, that the GI-Pro will not show gears when the Woolich Box is plugged in and Reading/Logging events from the ECU! 😆
Oh well. Not that I've got much to log at the moment, so I can just remove the Woolich box when its not being used, but at least its easier to access the connectors and plugs straight in when I do need it.

Next thing, my bike comes with the ECU controlled Kleen air pump. Well I removed the Kleen air hoses and installed Muzzy block off plates years ago, but I kept the pump plugged in so I wouldn't get a fault light showing up on the dash.

Yes, they say its an easy fix - jam a resistor in the plug or something something.
Well, no.. you dont actually need a resistor, just need to jump the pins with a bit of wire.

So this is the next type of plug I ordered - all I needed to do was to crimp terminals onto a loop of wire and plug it back into the main harness. No more fault light!

 

[SteveW]

Lets jump back a bit here -
I've got the Woolich Racing package, which means I can flash maps etc to the ECU.
With the 32bit ECU's theres actually 2 maps installed - MS0/MS1
But from factory (well at least for the AU models) both maps are identical.
There are some markets where the ZX12 was heavily restricted from factory with an extremely reduced power output - French models maybe? I don't remember, but you could supposedly get full power by just removing a plug from the wiring harness. This plug went into the........ KDS connector!
The stock 32bit ECU can switch maps just by grounding one of the pins in the KDS connector. (Kawasaki Diagnostics System)

Well in the not too distant future I'd like to re-dyno and tune the bike by flashing the ECU, instead of using a Power Commander.
I do have a PC5 installed, and previously also had a PC Ignition module which I removed, as to me it was pointless having one since I'm now able to change timing through the Woolich software - its a lot more accurate too, compared to the PC ignition module.

For now, all I've done is change timing and have been playing around with the Secondary Throttle plate opening map - basically just opening them a bit quicker which at the moment just gets the bike moving a bit quicker and more aggressively!
I've flashed these changes into MAP1 and left MAP0 stock.
Well how do I swap between maps, if I really want to?

Firstly, I had to modify my KDS double adaptor harness and add another 2 pin plug. Same style as the 4 pin KDS plug.

Next is a RHS switch block from a GTR1400. It's got an On/Off hazard light switch.

The cable lengths and plugs were different, so I shortened the GTR wiring to match the ZX12 length.

Here's where I used another lot of connector plugs that I'd ordered. Hazard lights use 3 wires, I just tucked the 3rd un-needed one back into wiring sheath for now.

I had to cut off the plastic locator plug from inside the switch block and then mounted it to the bars.

I wrapped 2 wires in braided sheathing, added matching plugs and ran them from the tail to where the factory switch block connector sits:

Put it all together and now I can switch between maps on the fly!


Next on the list is to pick up an 09-14 R1 switch block which has MODE printed on it and then swap the top half over.
Why didnt I just buy an R1 switch block from the beginning? Well the MODE switch is momentary and springs back to the right, not On/Off like the GTR1400's hazard light switch.
Probably could modify the switch to stay in either the Left or Right position, but at least I knew the GTR switch would do what I want without trying to modify it.

 

[Duck00]

Great bit of wiring wizardry there Steve!

 

[color me gone]

Great bit of wiring wizardry there Steve!

Agreed, very nice. Good work collecting all the connectors.

cmg